CVA HAwken, 54

[hotfxr]

Remember there was a reason my first scratch built long rifle was named "Patches". I made so many mistakes inletting that I left them all in and it just adds to the character of the rifle. It's a prime example of what happens when the builder really doesn't know what he is doing.

[pilgrim]

   I started  filing and polishing the brass trigger guard and the butt plate and patch box.  The only item that needed filing was the trigger guard.  It is slow going since I only do it when I feel like it.   Tonight I started the inletting.  But decided to read sections of "The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle",  by Chuck Dixon.    So  I stopped any and all inletting.  I ordered an  Exacto knife to outline the areas to be inletted so not to remove any wood on the stock other than in the needed area.  Then I got a ??Brilliant Idea??.    Instead of the 54 cal CVA barrel,  I am going to try to use the .36 caliber G R Douglas barrel.  So I  ordered a hooked breech tang.  Only problem is the Douglas barrel measures  .953125"  across the flats,  compared to the 15/15" barrel that measures .9375".  So I will need to lightly sand the barrel channel to get this barrel to fit properly.  But I would had to sand it anyway,  because the 15/16" barrel was also slightly tight.  Hopefully this will work,  because I have been looking into a 40-45 caliber rifle and really don't want to spend the $$$.  All I will need if this works out will be a bullet mold for the .36

[pilgrim]

    after carefully shaving wood from the existing inlet for the trigger,  I assembled the trigger and the lock into the stock.  Cocked the percussion hammer and pulled the set trigger and then pulled  the front trigger, NOTHING HAPPENED.  So  I removed the lock and checked the sear length in relation to the stock inletting.  Next I put some inletting black onto the tip of the sear and put the lock back into the stock.  Then removed the lock and sure enough,  there was a black dot.  So  I carefully used a  wood carving gouge and removed just a bit of wood where the black dot showed.   Then I reassembled the lock and the trigger onto the stock.  Pulled back on the rear trigger to set it,  then pulled the front trigger,  NOTHING HAPPENED AGAIN.  Then I started searching the net for "How a Trigger functions properly".    Again, nothing that I did not already know or think I knew. After removing the lock,  I  set the trigger to fire and put my finger into the area where the lock sear would be and then pulled the trigger.  I expected to feel a sharp snap on my finger,  NOTHING AGAIN.   Next I took out the trigger and decided to monkey with it.  The screw that holds the rear trigger spring was secure,  but out of curiosity I tried to tighten it further.  It did tighten a little. Then I reassembled the lock and the trigger into the stock and set the trigger to fire after cocking the hammer.  When I pulled the front trigger..  SUCCESS,  the hammer fell as it should.  It works now as it should using either the front trigger alone or using both triggers as a set trigger is used. 

    BUT  when I took the trigger apart I found something that has no Rhyme or Reason.  There is a rear trigger adjustment screw  That does nothing.  It is just there for looks or to fill the hole.   The hole is not even tapped all the way through.  I am assuming that the screw should in some way adjust the rear trigger,  by putting pressure on the under side of the rear trigger spring.   So  tomorrow I will contact Deer Creek and see  if they can help me.  The rear trigger is much to close to the front trigger to comfortably get my finger in the set it.  If  NO help then I will contact L & R concerning the trigger that  they list that is a possible replacement for the one I now have.

     What made me think this would be easy???   But then I am using parts from CVA and they stopped making Sidelocks,  so the parts I have are left overs or seconds.

[Winter Hawk]

Try 2....

My Hodge-Podge rifle started out as a Deer Creek kit for the CVA Mountain Rifle.  I couldn't get along with the double trigger and finally removed the rear trigger altogether.  (Don't lose the little wire spring at the front of the trigger plate - it puts tension on the front trigger and without it the rear trigger won't set.)  After polishing the lock internals the trigger pull is light enough that I don't need the set feature.  I replaced the trigger guard with one from Track of the Wolf, I believe it was for the Leman rifle.  It gives the trigger a more balanced look, and gives room for a gloved finger.

-WH-

[pilgrim]

  update on this project.  The hooked breech tang arrived and when I fitted it with the barrel, in the stock,   The barrel is a mismatch to the layout of the lock.  The lock plate is not made for a Snail.   It is off two ways.    But I do know that it fits into my Cabelas 50 cap lock stock.   So either I find an investarms stock  OR  I go to Dixon Muzzleloader Fair in July and see if I can get a precarved stock that will be a match??  There will be several people there that sell these items,   but will have to take the barrel along for a definate match and or advice from others there. 

     So it is back to the 54 barrel.  I sent off to Brownells for Plum Brown solution to plum brown the breech tang to try to match the barrel.  Also  my Exacto knife has arrived, so on Saturday I will start the inletting of the wedge plates.

     I have waxed the stock a couple times and the color of the stock is growing on me.  I dont know if it just me or what,  but the paste wax seems to be highlighting the wood grains,  so I will leave the color of the stock as is.  It is  the color of most Maple furniture I have ever seen.   

     As for the trigger,  I will leave it as is.  I tested it in the stock as if I were going to shoot and even though the rear trigger is a bit close to the front trigger,  it is doable. 

[Watauga]

pilgrim  I see your Diabolical Plan! You are going to have to make lots of new smpkepoles, until you run out of parts!!!   But you then keep buying More Parts!! 

[pilgrim]

   here is a picture of the rifle,  still need to plum brown the barrel tang.  And decide whether I want the brass trigger guard to be finished in a Satin or polished finish.  Probably wont match the rest of the brass unless I polish it

     

[Hanshi]

  Uuuuhh...Make me one. 

[hotfxr]

Looks good to me. Since our nearsighted short limbed leader is still too busy soaking up liberal left wing knowledge, you will have to send it out to me for testing. I should have it back to you in a few months or so.

[Red Badger]

Looks good to me. Since our nearsighted short limbed leader is still too busy soaking up liberal left wing knowledge, you will have to send it out to me for testing. I should have it back to you in a few months or so.

I ain't that busy.......       

[Dogshirt]

Looks good to me. Since our nearsighted short limbed leader is still too busy soaking up liberal left wing knowledge, you will have to send it out to me for testing. I should have it back to you in a few months or so.

I ain't that busy.......   

Then you must be SLACKIN'!