Resoled a old beat-up frizzen

[BartSr]

I had this original to the rifle old frizzen.  I had tried Red Cherry (think Kasenite) along with rehardening multiple times. All without success.  After I purchased a 2nd used frizzen on ebay I learned that Lyman frizzens work fine, such is life.  Then I read online where old files used as relining material works.
So ... I ground down a old H.F. file to fit the frizzen face contour.  Sweat soldered it on with 3% silver content soft solder.

File face before outer surface grinding.



Solder joint and thickness of file piece while surface grinding.


Finished.


And it works, not having ever worked before.

BartSr

[Patocazador]

Very good job.
How's the strike angle now? Does it work better with the flint in the pictured position?

[hotfxr]

I just love it when we can come up with a way to make things work. It makes this hobby even more satisfying. Good job. 

[William]

Just came across this post and it looks like you did an excellent job. One quick question as to the durability of the silver solder. Just the shock of the flint scraping the frizzen is impressive so is it possible that at some point the solder will fracture or give out or is it soft enough as well as secure to take the fatigue?

[BartSr]

Very good job.
How's the strike angle now? Does it work better with the flint in the pictured position?

With this new cock and a thick piece of leather under the flint+leather wrap, it hits a bit high.  May have to flip the flint over.  Yes it works.

BartSr

[BartSr]

Just came across this post and it looks like you did an excellent job. One quick question as to the durability of the silver solder. Just the shock of the flint scraping the frizzen is impressive so is it possible that at some point the solder will fracture or give out or is it soft enough as well as secure to take the fatigue?

I will be testing it on Sunday AM at the Arizona Usery Range small bore BP shoot.
It's 3% silver content eutectic type soft solder, think old style ceramic electronics.  If it breaks then I'll try low temp plumbers silver solder. The solder is not in shear but direct pushing  mode, should be OK.
I have plenty of old files to use.

BartSr

[ErikPrice1@msn.com]

Man that is cool. Way to go

[BartSr]

OK, the resole worked, mostly.  I was told by our groups flinter guru, that it was still too hard and I should draw it back.  Did that and it makes more sparks now.

BartSr

[BartSr]

Very good job.
How's the strike angle now? Does it work better with the flint in the pictured position?

Strike angle is dependant on the lock and geometry with the flint in various positions.  It's all lock/gun dependant.  From the picture, the flint was hitting about 1/4 inch from the frizzen top, way too high.  What works for me may not work for you.  I did use a smaller flint (5/8 inch) and put the bevel up.  Much better now.

BartSr

[Patocazador]

Yeah, it looked like it would strike high and too square the way it was. However, a photo doesn't give the arc traveled by the hammer like you said.