fixing to start egg tanning

[kybackwoodsman]

ok, i got some time off from my job during the holiday so i plan on tanning my 3 furs using egg tan ( it seems alot cheaper than brains or using salt/alum) one of them is my coyote hide and the other two are coon.  i already have them fleshed out and dried, been dried since last season and no smell from them all through the summer.  just need a little guidance, was checking out braintan.com but couldnt find any directions to egg tanning.  mainly need the yolk to water mixture and working temps.. ill be doing it in my garage so itll be a bit chilly out there.   also saw that braintan.com sells raw salted buff moose and elk hides for 50 45 and 40 dollars respectively, this gives me ideas, would love to do some work with these hides for robes and buckskins this spring!

[Hawken50]

  Hey,what spf das ya put on the eggs......giggle,run,hide.

[kybackwoodsman]

Hardy har har har!!! 

[Red Badger]

Gonna have to take that jug away!

Now then what size is your hide?  I have not done egg tanning but I remember reading one of the threads in tanning about it, 1 doz. eggs = 1 lb brain...

herer is the whole thread:  http://traditionalmuzzleloadingcheap.com/forum/index.php?topic=2033.0

[kybackwoodsman]

i wonder if 1 dozen eggs/ 1 lb of brains will be enough to do a coyote and a couple of coons.  i really doubt that all thier brains combined would weight a pound but not sure.                       and hey dont hide the jug yet i aint even started this headache!! im gonna need it!   
                                         

[Micanopy]

1 dozen eggs to 1/2 gallon of water should give you plenty to do these hides. You can also spend a little bit of money and get some LEXOL to mix in with the eggs to help them penetrate into the hide. Wont take much, maybeso a 1.4 cup to 1 dozen eggs.

[voyageur1688]

 You can also eliminate the water /egg mix as long as the hide is nice and damp-- a dry hide wont absorb the egg so wont tan very well if at all. A dozen eggs (without the water mix method) will do an average sized deer hide so a coyote should be no problem once you have gotten the hang of it, but for a beginner the mix may be a better choice. The main thing is to make sure the hide is damp enough to be able to absorb the egg and be flexible while you are working it in. Work the eggs in from the flesh side until it is saturated all the way through and let it stand for about 24 hrs--either rolled up or covered with plastic to keep it from drying out and placed in a cool dark place like a refridgerater, then after the 24 hours, rinse it off so it wont smell. As for working temps, it works best from 60-70 degrees to work it in before putting it away to cool but can be done at lower temps but will be cold on your hands. After its set for 24 hours and is rinsed, you can start breaking the grain to soften it.
Voy

[kybackwoodsman]

so best to soak the hides in warm water to soften, let go damp then work the eggs in??

[voyageur1688]

 Thats where I have had the best luck.
Voy

[kybackwoodsman]

ok sounds good, i think i got it down enough im gonna give it a shot.. my plan is to make a coyote skin shooting bag and coon skin hat.

[Red Badger]

Remember we want to see pictures of the process and finished results... so get an assistant to man the camera... 

[old salt]

Or you can let assistant tan the hide any you run the camera

[kybackwoodsman]

lol, i doubt that seriously, really do. but ill get pics up of what happens as i go, that way if i mess up we can review and correct the problem.  i think the coyote bag is gonna turn out real nice, and its something i dont really see much of, whole shooting bags made of a pelt. outta be different.

[voyageur1688]

Since its got the hair on, after ya get it tanned and softened, work some mink oil into it to keep it soft.
Voy

[Micanopy]

Isnt that what the fat in the eggs is supposed to do? Coat all the fibers to keep them from binding together and becoming stiff?