Modifying a backstop

[Red Badger]

I recently found a .22 cal commercial backstop from the mid '70's that was meant to be used at 25 yards with .22 long rifle ammo... It is probably about 3/16 or 1/4 inch steel -  What would I need to do to shoot my BP pistols into it safely...  I do not want to destroy it as it has sentimental value but sure would like to set it up for my BP pistols... any ideas?

[Patocazador]

Shoot #8 shot from your pistols or place it farther away. 

Seriously, placing it at a more acute angle than 45 deg. will not allow the bullets to hit it directly. They will just glance off the under side and bury in the dirt. The backstop will be shorter in height so you'll have to aim carefully.

[old salt]

Red Badger
If has sentimental value keep it just for the 22s. For black powder pistols I recommend min. 1/2 in.  For rifles 40 cal. and smaller 5/8 in. you can get buy, For 45 cal. and up I would go 3/4.. I know this muzzleloading on the cheap, hear me out, if you use the thinner stuff how often are you going to have to replace you targets, if you are only going to shoot at them 1 or 2 or 3 times, a peace of 1/2 ply wood will work. Now as for a back stop, 4 to 6 feet of dirt will stop any small arms round known to man. The higher you pile the dirt the thicker the base and the safer you shooting area will be, and the less chance getting someone down range hurt or killed.
This just something from and old man who has set a couple of ranges.

[Blackfeet]

Get an old well expansion tank or a compressor tank , cut the end off and fill it with rubber mulch. There is a very small amount more to it than that in my construction but it will stop stout 30-06 rds. I have harvested every bullet and ball that I have shot in the last few years. Beauty of it is that they are mostly whole and when you invite friends...they add to your stash.

[Watauga]

Wow Blckfeet     You have all angles of "Traditional Muzzleloading on the Cheap" covered on this!     As well as Recycling and Environmentally Friendly Lead containment       

[flintboomer]

I suggest that you save it for 22s , but a 32 with 10-15 gr would be ok in it. I can't recommend anything more than that.

[Blackfeet]

Wow Blckfeet     You have all angles of "Traditional Muzzleloading on the Cheap" covered on this!     As well as Recycling and Environmentally Friendly Lead containment       

I took this a bit further last fall and mounted a smaller compressor tank on a wheelbarrow frame. That way I can move my range to different places on the property for when the sun is in your eyes. I even set it up in my shop to shoot indoors through the winter with my 22 target pistols. I have not allowed anyone to do that with me.
The only real trouble has been that from time to time, you want to shoot the gong or some plastic bottles and it pains me to loose some lead.
If anyone want to see pics or know the setup. let me know and I will post it.

As has been stated, a true dirt berm should be present behind this trap to catch strays. I actually have a dedicated 16 x 8 ft berm with the bulk of it set up with target hangers for multiple shooters and another for pistols that incorporates a 60 ft vertical hillside.

As a side note. My father set up an indoor 22 pistol range in our cellar with a sheet of 5/16" steel plate. He tested the plate in the gravel pit with a 30-30 with no damage too the plate when set to the proper angle.

Another note is that I have a swinger target of about 5/8 thickness that my cast rifle bullets hardly dimple but my 54 cal round-balls crater. I can't figure that one but I have repeated it with 50 cal and even 45. These buggers hit hard.

[Blackfeet]

Just harvested this years crop of lead from the outdoor trap-77 lbs of assorted cast bullets and ball. Will do the indoor/pistol trap this weekend. That one should yield another 40 lbs due to a lot of 45 acp slugs. Will smelt the first lot while retrieving the second.
Lead is getting hard to find.

[Dogshirt]

Question; If I collect my FMJ .45 and .4o slugs, can the lead be melted out of the jackets? I shoot a lot of both.

[Blackfeet]

 Yes, the open ended type can be melted out. Just throw them in the pot and stir them so they can drain.
The plated and closed base type need to have a hole put in them.
I used to shot a lot of berry's bullets, plated and just touched the tip or corner of the base to a belt grinder for a couple seconds.
On that note, I am not sure if a non opened bullet would be dangerous from bursting . They shouldn't have an air space but I do know that they will not melt without a opening

[Hanshi]

After seeing what a .45 prb does to woods walk steel targets, I'd keep the gong for ONLY. 22 rimfire.  I've collected those iron plates sometimes put under the RR rail and later discarded; They are thick but will still dent from larger prb but that's about all.  For prb they should last for many years; just don't shoot jacketed rifle bullets at them. 

[Blackfeet]

Yes, I generally do not shoot any jacketed bullets against the plate.
But I often shoot cast bullets up to 200 grains at over 1800 fps and they just splatter but a round ball makes a deep, deep dent at 1600 fps

I had to prove the hitting power of the PRB to my brother who had only shot Maxi balls in his TC Hawken. He has gotten several deer since

[William]

I have a pellet trap that is basically a steel box with the backstop mounted at an angle.  The pellets hit and drop into the pan.  I suggest that you either go with a thicker plate, also at an angle or if you have access to, glue a tire tread to the plate in your trap.  A stout load may deform the plate a bit but I doubt that it will penetrate the tread.

[pilgrim]

     Where I shoot they have a 20 foot high earthen  backstop,  but the targets get stapled to 1/2" thick conveyor belts and a stout RB load  penetrates the rubber belt and those that are not a stout load will occasionally   bounce back to me from  50 yards.

     But I assume you meant to put the rubber tire treat on the back side of the steel plate??

[William]

     Where I shoot they have a 20 foot high earthen  backstop,  but the targets get stapled to 1/2" thick conveyor belts and a stout RB load  penetrates the rubber belt and those that are not a stout load will occasionally   bounce back to me from  50 yards.

     But I assume you meant to put the rubber tire treat on the back side of the steel plate??

No, my suggestion is to glue a tire tread to the front of the steel plate.  Now, it won't be easy to cut the tread into pieces that will cover the plate but if you have access to a bandsaw or some other similar cutting saw then use some very strong epoxy and cover the strike face of the steel plate with the tread.  Be sure to have the plate set at an angle, about 45 degrees IIRC (someone please correct me if I'm wrong)  slanting towards you. [ \ ].  The tread should absorb a lot of the momentum and direct the bullet downwards, ready for you to collect and melt down for later use.