45 caliber muzzleloader qestion

[pilgrim]

  I just received a new to me muzzleloader.  It is a 45 caliber percussion rifle.  Looks like may be a kit gun,  but not sure.  Either way I have just finished putting a coat of paste wax on the stock.  The stock was very drab looking,  but now it is starting to shine and show off  the wood grain.   I have pulled the lock to check and oil it.  Then I dropped a light down the barrel to check for rust etc.  I TRIED  to run a few patches with Hoppes on them,  but met with resistance, since the patches I used are the same cleaning patches I use for the 50-58 caliber rifles.  So I cut  a couple down and that seemed to work ok.  Then I used a 50 caliber dry patch to swab out the barrel,  All went well,  BUT  for those of you who shoot 45 caliber rifles,   What size cleaning patch do you use? 

     The rifle is a Jukar with the  2 piece full length stock.  Also,  any ideas on what twist rate it may be?   Seems to have a lot of lands and grooves.  As I said before,  it looks like it may be a kit gun,  BUT,  the barrel is Plum Browned, and  most every kit gun has the barrel in the white.  I WILL try to get pictures posted,  possible tomorrow.    Also,   I can't find any proof marks.  All I can see is,  Jukar Spain-45 Cal,  Black Powder only,  then the serial number.   The serial number is under 200,000.  May/will have to pull the pins and remove barrel the check further,  another day.  followed by a day at the range.  I already have the .440 roundballs   etc.

[Dogshirt]

I use the same patches for my .45 as I use for my .54

[pilgrim]

   what size jag do you use to run a cleaning patch down the barrel?    My 45 jag with a 2 1/2" square patch is too tight to even start in the bore.

[old salt]

I  use .018 pillow ticking and cut at muzzle. patching RB and cleaning patches

[Watauga]

I had a similar deal going on a 45 Ardessa Rifle...I ended up chucking the 45 cleaning Jag into a drill and spinning it on some  400 grit sand paper to shave it down a little.. It Worked way better after that.. ...I cut up old T Shirts to make cleaning patches so that might by why.   But then They work perfectly well on the 50 cals with a 50 cal Jag..??

[pilgrim]

    I plan on using pillow ticking cut at the muzzle,  but will need a smaller cleaning patch than what I use for the 50's thru 58.  Just concerned that I don't loose the patch and then need to fish out the bare patch.  This will be another  new learning experience for me.  Never had a 45 caliber rifle.  I am looking forward to shooting this rifle.  It is so light in weight.  Plan to use 40-45 grains 3 F Goex  for a start.    Loading chart says most accurate load,  40-65  gr 3F  with .015 patch.  I will be using ,020 for a start.  May have to drop to .018 or less.  And I will definitely have to wear my eye glasses to be able to see the front sight and the target.  Hate shooting with eyeglasses.  But with age comes these handicaps.

[Dogshirt]

   what size jag do you use to run a cleaning patch down the barrel?    My 45 jag with a 2 1/2" square patch is too tight to even start in the bore.

I don't know what it measures, but it is the jag that came with the rifle 40 years ago. Mine is a CVA with the 2 pc stock, also made in Spain.

[pilgrim]

    I tried a different jag.  I used the regular cleaning patch and a 36 caliber jag.  No problem now,  si I will try a 40 caliber jag.   The 45 caliber jag with a standard cleaning patch wont even get into the bore.  Also, when I did cut down the lubed cleaning patch after removing the patch it was torn and  rubbed through. But with the 36 cal jag,  the cleaning patch was tightly wrapped around the jag and rod and it did work.  Just was not very tight and don't think it did much cleaning etc.

     We apparently have the same rifle,  do not know what I am doing wrong.  But I will learn.............

[Patocazador]

The size of the jag is usually the problem. I use a slotted jag meant for .35 caliber. That way the patch doesn't stay in the barrel. Just cut a large patch diagonally or fold over one, stick one edge in and pull it about 1/3 through. Then fold the long end over the tip of the slotted jag.

[Hanshi]

For my .45s I use a .022" cotton canvas duck patch with both .440" and .445" ball; and lube with mink oil in the bush and Hoppes BP lube at the range.  I cut the patches to "roughly" 1.25" (+ or -); I say roughly because I don't measure tham very precisely.  Often I use the same shooting patch for both .45 and .50.  Cleaning patches?  Well, depending on the type material used for cleaning, I use a variety, I mostly cut and try.  I've gotten pretty good at judging what size to use in all my calibers.  If I patch with a ScotchBrite pad, I will normally use a jag two calibers smaller.

[pilgrim]

/quote]

      What does the SctotchBrite pad do?   Does it clean the barrel better or is it to shine the barrel?

[Hanshi]

Pilgrim, Scotch Brite pads are green scouring pads that are mild, yet will bring out stuff in the bore that looks clean but isn't quite.  I cut little patches from the sheets and squeeze them a little in a vise (or otherwise) to make them a bit thinner.  I use a smaller jag so it will go down easily and scrub the bore same as I do with a cloth patch.  You can wet them with water and dry with a cloth patch; and they will also hold oil for cleaning.  I just get the ones from the kitchen section at the grocery store.  They are mild and won't hurt metal.

[pilgrim]

              Will need to get some.   Thanks Hanshi.

[beowulf]

if I want to get the crud loose , I use a small piece of 0000 steel wool and a little oil , then flush the barrel with warm soapy water , run a few dry patches through and then a lightly oiled patch , been doing it that way for 30 years . it`s a once in a while thing ! generally use old tee shirts for cleaning patches !

[pilgrim]

    This rifle is definitely  made from a KIT.   The stock was never fully shaped  and sanded smooth.  The forward part of the stock was never made to transition to the brass nose  cap so the stock wood protrudes out the sides by 1/8" +.   Also the left side of the comb  is not flush with the butt plate.  And the forward section of the stock needs to be filed and sanded to give a more rounded  finished look.   Seems a shame to have to sand the stock because of the stain,  but I will have to do this for the look of a  finished rifle.   Of course  this should not effect how accurate it shoots.?