Wondering what i need for cleaning and shooting a .50 caliber Renegade Hunter?

[isaacdavis1214]

Hey everyone got a e-mail back from Renegade and he's fine with it.So i'm going to try and buy what i need to shoot/clean the gun with this paycheck.From what i know balls,patches whether pre-lubed or not,and caps seem to be the cheapest thing.Powder,range rod ect. seems to be the most expensive if you will.If you guys could make a list with possible links (not necessary) i will try and have atleast the majority here by this coming Friday which is when my paycheck arrives.Thanks for all the help so far.

[flintboomer]

Good advice from all so far, but here is how I would prioritize the purchases and why:

Range box: Get something with at least one shelf with dividers (two shelves is better) and make sure it has a good latch. You will need it for the stuff you will accumulate and for extra patches, lube, balls etc. You can also shoot from the box until you can get a bag.

Cleaning jag: It will need to have 10 x32 threads unless Renegade tells you otherwise, and do not start shooting until you have one because after you shoot you MUST clean. This is not optional.

Powder measure: You need to know how much powder you are shooting and an adjustable measure is best.

Shooting supplies: Flask or horn, powder, patches, balls, lubes..... It is fine to start with the commercial prelubed patches, but you may want to find a cheaper way to shoot later. Get some shooting experience before you start looking for cheaper ways and it gives you time to talk and listen when you are around more experienced shooters.

Short starter: They make loading so much easier and they are fairly easy to make or not too expensive to buy.

Nipple wrench: You WILL NEED IT.

Later you will probably want to get a range rod/ cleaning/ loading rod. It is not necessary, but is a wonderful convenience.

Bore protector for the loading/cleaning rod: minimizes wear and tear on the muzzle.

Cleaning solution: Water, soapy water, moose milk or a commercial black powder cleaning solution. They all work, there are plenty of variations and possibilities.

Cleaning patches: Commercial kind, or cut up flannel or T-shirt material works great.

Some kind of storage lube/bore oil: YOU DON"T WANT A RUSTY GUN!!! and you don't want most of the gun oils that are made for centerfire.

Old tooth brush: To get into the corners around the nipple when you are cleaning.


There are some other things, but these are what I see as important a would not want to be without.

Along the way if you hook up with a good club you will make some friends and have a lot of fun shooting. I DO recommend that you check out and join a local club.

[isaacdavis1214]

Thanks for the great list FlintBoomer!I don't think there is any clubs near me,the closest one that was posted was still over 2 and a half hours away.I live in Morristown,which is a city with 30,000 people or so and we don't even have a shooting range =0 we have one for shotguns but that's it.And the surrounding counties are even smaller than my city at around 7,000 people,Knoxville i know has a shooting range as it has over 100,000 population,but it is also 1 1/2-2 hours away.I have some friends here that are experienced hunters so i'm sure they will know how to shoot this gun and offer advice.

Another thing i am wondering about is how often should i completely break down this gun?Or should just removing the nipple,barrel and stock to soak in warm soapy water (then scrub and spray with WD-40) be enough to clean this gun?Also to use Crisco,Rem Oil,or Bore Butter? As a storage lube/bore oil be enough?Thanks for pointing out that the cleaning jag will have to be 10x32 threads,i will ask Renegade if that is the size of cleaning thread/jag that i will need.As far as a range box goes i don't have one with shelves i just have a plain old Tackle Box will that serve me well right now?

[Dogshirt]

It is a law of Nature that you WILL out-grow whatever you start out with as a range box!

[William]

Cleaning patches can be purchased but are much more expensive than making yourself.  I prefer cotton flannel but old t-shirts will work too.  Get a sturdy nipple wrench like this one; http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/shop/item.asp?item=14032 or like this; http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_100_356&products_id=7633&osCsid=8b43dac5bde4c30add574cd91377e3c6 but avoid the flimsy metal tubes with the slots cut out of the ends because the soon loose their shape and don't grip the nipple tight.  You may want to get a nipple pick or even a vent pick for a flintlock to clear debris from the nipple while you are out shooting, it comes in handy.  There is a difference between patch lube and rust prevention oil although some manufactures market them as one and the same, so that is why I suggested that you get pre-lubed shooting patches to start out with.  Rem. oil does fine as a storage oil but is for after cleaning the bore with soap and water.  One or two drops of liquid dish soap in a pail of water is all you need, then use a cleaning patch on the jag to pump soapy water in and out of the barrel with the breech end submerged just above the nipple hole.  Remove the nipple every time before cleaning and put it in a small jar with soapy water while you clean the barrel, rinse and dry thoroughly before putting it back in, with a very small drop of oil on the threads.  Like I said, I prefer Birch-wood Casey Barricade, but Rem. Oil works decently enough.  I am not a fan of WD-40 for long term storage although it does make for a good cleaner.  You need not pull the lock everytime you clean but it's good to know how to do it, plus you should inspect it once a year anyway.  One drop of oil on the moving parts is all that is needed.  Once you get settled on a good powder charge and are familiar with your new rifle you can try different shooting patch material and lubes, cleaning solutions, whatever.  You've got the powder flask so now is your range box.  There is a dizzying array of them; http://www.dixiegunworks.com/default.php?cPath=22_100_350 but a plastic tackle box works just as well, plus there are numerous plans for them on the internet if you have the time and space to build one yourself.  Here are some other option in that respect that you may want to look at;
http://www.cmcgov.com/store/pc/DAC-TOOL-BOX-TWO-DRAWER-WOOD-p4451.htm?gclid=CJPmnr_EiLECFUNrtgodxwYYIA
http://compare.ebay.com/like/180892896844?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/t_10153_12605?tName=wood-tool-box.html
Lastly, there is the short starter, and again I am going to recommend that you either build one yourself, purchase one from one of our forum members or buy one, and a bore guide on your short starter and range rod helps keep the wear down to a minimum.
http://possibleshop.com/s-s-short-starter.html

[Rev]

If it turns out you need 8/32 thread, I have them. Also just about everything else you might need...

[Rev]

I recommend that you get powder horn or a powder flask as most clubs (at least in my area) will not allow an open powder can on or near the firing line for saftey reasons.

What you can do if money is an issue right off, is make a spout from the lid of the powder can. Find an empty brass casing from a 30-30 or something similar & another from a 9mm or so. What you want is the pistol casing to be a tight fit over the rifle casing. Drill out the base of your "spout". Drill a hole in the cap as close to the size of the rifle casing as possible, a little undersized is best. Push the casing thru, then seal with epoxy or something similar. This was made with a .357 case for the spout & a .40 S & W for a cap...

[flintboomer]

Excellent pointer from Rev about the spout.
I prefer to make them from a .308 or .30-06 case cut in half and the back half discarded, then drill or punch the cap and solder or epoxy in place. A rimmed case will give you a solid stop for the case if you drill the cap a little oversize and push it through, but I like to put the cardboard disc back into the cap for a better seal when pouring. Either way will make a good temporary flask and used later for a pour spout into your horn or flask.

If you get a traditional flask DO NOT remove the three little screws that hold the head in place! Use the pour spout to fill it or a traditional horn through the hole. With the tube flask that you described, just screw off the head or the bottom and pour the powder in.

A 380 auto case works very well as a cap on a .308 or .30-06 case and a 9mm will work on the slightly longer neck of a .30-30 case.

[isaacdavis1214]

Thanks for all the tips and links.Renegade is nice enough to send me a Cleaning Jag with the gun,and it is 10x32 threads just to let you know,and will any range/cleaning rod enable me to screw a jag,ball or patch puller on the end of it?Just curious.So removing the barrel and soaking it and the stick with warm soapy water and cleaning it with patches ect should be enough cleaning wise?I just thought about what someone on here (potentially this exact board) said about a cheap flask,using a plain old mustard container that you squeeze mustard out of?That should work right?I have enough money to buy one of course,but saving money is always a good thing.A range rod,powder,and flask seem to cost the most.I will check to see if i can buy black powder locally or not.But a short starter,patches whether lubed or not and balls are extremely cheap.Once again thanks so much for all the helpful replies!

[flintboomer]

Many range rods are 8x32, some are 10x32, so be sure you know what you are getting before you buy.
Rod tips on muzzleloaders can be 8x32 or 10x32 depending on brand and you can get converters, but it is best to keep everything the same especially at first. A few rifle rods are 10x32 on one end and 8x32 on the other end.

Musket threads are a completely different story.

[Renegade]

Thanks William,so i have atleast picked one good item out so far lol.

excellent choice Isaac  I've had mine for 6 years.

[William]

color=blue]So, just make sure that any additional jags, patch worms, ball pullers, etc., have 10/32 threads on them or be able to accept 10/32 threads like the range rod[/color] I just thought about what someone on here (potentially this exact board) said about a cheap flask,using a plain old mustard container that you squeeze mustard out of? Just about anything that safely contains the powder and allows you to easily pour it into your powder measure will work.  Many ways of doing that as well, from the traditional cows horn, hollowing out elk antlers, turning wood cylinders and any other natural material, right up to re-purposing modern items. Here's a small powder flask that I bought some months ago that is small enough to fit inside my shooting bag but holds enough powder for an entire range session; http://www.ebay.com/itm/360424199534?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D360424199534%26_rdc%3D1 I have enough money to buy one of course,but saving money is always a good thing.A range rod,powder,and flask seem to cost the most.I will check to see if i can buy black powder locally or not.But a short starter,patches whether lubed or not and balls are extremely cheap.Once again thanks so much for all the helpful replies!

One other thing that you might buy is a spout for the powder can itself, which make it much easier to transfer powder to your flask.  Wait until you know which kind of powder you will be using as the lids are different sizes.  Use one like this for Goex type powder; http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories/partdetail.aspx/1231/1/POWDER-CAP-V, or this one; http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/1231/1/POWDER-CAP-B, This shows the difference between what goes on the can as opposed to what fits on a plastic bottle of Pyrodex, Triple 7 or other subs; http://www.rmcoxyoke.com/inc/sdetail/197  As always, I hope this helps.

[flintboomer]

Another thing i am wondering about is how often should i completely break down this gun?Or should just removing the nipple,barrel and stock to soak in warm soapy water (then scrub and spray with WD-40) be enough to clean this gun?Also to use Crisco,Rem Oil,or Bore Butter? As a storage lube/bore oil be enough?Thanks for pointing out that the cleaning jag will have to be 10x32 threads,i will ask Renegade if that is the size of cleaning thread/jag that i will need.As far as a range box goes i don't have one with shelves i just have a plain old Tackle Box will that serve me well right now?

Some of what you should do depends on how often you shoot. Bore butter and WD40 are fine for short term storage but not long term, especially in humid climates, olive oil and canola oil are ok for mid term if you store the gun muzzle down, but only short term if you store muzzle up because they drain slowly into the breech and can create a hard plug of fouling. Crisco is ok short term but gets sticky after a month or so and makes it hard to load the first shot unless you swab it out with alcohol before shooting.
This forum is called Traditional Muzzleloading on the CHEAP for a reason. If you already have a box that you can use but it is not perfect for the job, USE IT ANYWAY! I started with a used fishing tackle box and another friend started with a .50 cal ammo box because they were what we had and we didn't have much money.

[isaacdavis1214]

Thanks for all the helpful replies everyone,i just was thinking and i'm wondering if i need a flask for sure at this stage?I will be shooting at either my friends house or on one of my uncle's friends property,so i'm not sure a flask is 100% needed?Couldn't i just keep the container that the powder comes in 20-30 feet or so away from the muzzleloader and fill the powder measure up to 50 grains or so then go back to the firearm?Trying to save money anyway i can lol,i still need to but some type of cleaning solution to go along with hot soapy water,a cleaning brush (or two) cleaning patches,sgort starter,nipple wrench,patches to shoot with,balls and powder.So pretty much i need to buy everything still.

Just trying to go through what is 100% necessary right now and what is a get later maybe kind of thing.Now i'm more confused on what type of lube to use to store the gun =/ i would LIKE to shoot the gun either every week or every other week but not sure if this would always be possible.So now i'm not 100% on which lube to choose.I still haven;t checked to see if local gun shops or even if wal mart (doubt is) sells black powder or black powder substitutes to shoot a muzzleloading bp rifle.I should probablly start on that.

[pilgrim]

     With one muzzleloader to shoot, I dont think you need to worry about long term storage.  WD40 will work fine.