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stock finish

Started by david32cal, February 25, 2009

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david32cal

blo/mineral spirit rub. what is blo Frank

Oldnamvet

#16
BLO - boiled linseed oil.  Called boiled but just means it has driers added.  Don't use raw linseed oil -- takes forever to dry, if it ever does.

pathfinder

Boiled Linseed oil is what we [Furniture guys]refer to as long oil. Grandpa never let us buy anything already "fixed". Heating raw flax oil in a crucible set in sand for up to 2 days and you have the same as boiled linseed oil. Using steel wool for appling the oil is perfectly fine and actually recommended, I wouldn't use it on the raw wood after raising the grain,wipe again with water and any particles left will rust,especially if you've de-greased the wool,another reason not to use steel wool is the trace amounts of oil the wool is treated with may transfer to the raw wood. I know,splitting hairs and it may work perfectly well for others without any problems,but I have enough problems building stuff hdslp,I don't need to take any chances!

graybear

Pathfinder,
I did use steel wool (once) on a light colored stock to whisker. funny orangy spots. I use bol, hand rubbed til I can't take the heat , wipe off the excess with cheese cloth, and let dry over night. I put on a coat a day for a week, then a coat a week for a month, then a coat a month until the stock won't absorb any more. Usually a month or two. If I want a smooth finish, I follow with a couple coats of Truoil (as many as six on some walnut) sanding lightly between coats. If I don't want a shiny stock, I'll knock down the shine with 0000 steel wool or Something with rottenstone in it. Birchwood Casey makes a decent one. If I want it to shine, I leave the last coat or two as .is
tanstaafl