I still want to

[Micanopy]

Good read Mongrel, thanks. I would more than likely build it as a copy, or based upon the current status of the rifle. It more than likely wont be an exact copy of the rifle in its current situation as there would still be a lot of guess work however I dont see why it couldnt be built as to near as possible from the photographs and the measurements on the lay out paper. The bright work would be easy enough to copy and set close enough to the original locations on the build. The dimentions might be off a small amount with the items I have or will obtain, but close enough.

As we can see by the photographs and the discription from WHB we know that it has a snail type patent "Britch". Now, I have in possession a .45 cal CVA kentucky barrel that is 33 1/2 inches in length. The measurements in one of the photos, in the historical documents section, give a measurement of 30 1/4 from the muzzle to the breach. Question is, did they measure from the muzzle to the joint, or from the muzzle to the tang? I am thinking its to the breach joint.

So instead of having it a .41 cal, I could rebreach the barrel with a 7/8 snail to have the proper length. fill in the tennon plate dovetails, re dovetail the tennons, and it would work, save it being .45 cal instead of 41.

[gunmaker]

As you said, it won't be an exact copy----so 1" more or less on bbl. shouldn't be a problem.  Breech it with L&R's 7/8" snail and get whittling....Tom

[Micanopy]

Thanks Tom! I have been looking and looking for a snail type 7/8 breach, never even dawned on my to look at L and R. As I see it they offer 15/16 with various thread sizes. Do you go with a 15/16 and file it down to match the barrel?

[mongrel]

A couple of points now that I've re-read past posts and looked again at the pictures of the original.

A CVA lock off a Kentucky model won't work; it won't have a fly in the tumbler, necessary for use with double-set triggers. If you want to use a CVA lock then acquire one off one of the models with double-set triggers. I myself would find one of their "Hawken" model locks, which has a much larger lockplate than the smaller locks off guns like the Kentucky, Bobcat, pistols, etc, and I'd re-shape the plate (plenty of metal to work with) to closer to the shape of the lock on the original rifle. The only quibble I have with the CVA Hawken locks is the size and shape of the hammer -- "awkward" is an understatement.

Since CVA Hawken locks, when available, tend to run at least $50, I'd invest another $40-$45 or so in one of L&R's correctly-styled percussion locks, or the Siler/Chambers Mountain Lock.

In the last picture of the original you posted, I very distinctly see a round drum fitting into a half-round cut-out on the lockplate -- not a larger snail. If the 1880's owner/renovator of the original rifle installed a patent breech, I think it was a flint-style with a drum threaded or cast into the lock-side flat. If you want a hooked breech, Numrich sells a simple hook (part #528480) and a T/C-style hook tang (part #1127210C) that can be re-worked to a shape and length more like the tang on the original gun, which with shipping included will set you back less than $30. Thread a drum directly into the side barrel flat and there you are. Or, as Gunmaker suggested, choose L&R's solid-tang 7/8" snail plug.

If you go with any form of snail you will find the drum cut-out on locks like the CVA's and the Siler/Chambers to be too deep for the snail to fill, not to mention that opening the drum cut-out to accept a snail will, at least on the Siler/Chambers models, compromise the metal of the bolster where it's needed to support the anchoring tab of the lock mainspring. For reasons of expense, ease of assembly, allowing the use of a greater range of available locks, and sticking to what the picture of the original rifle seems to show, I'd go with the Numrich hook and tang, and a screw-in drum, and be done with it.

[mongrel]

In response to the question actually directed to Gunmaker, the 7/8" snail plug has a solid tang. If you want a hooked breech with a snail, you'll need to work down a 15/16" model.

[Micanopy]

Ok, I see what you are saying.

[Micanopy]

Also Mongrel, I have on hand a second Traditions Crockett Rifle lock, it needs a main spring but otherwise is intact, would that work? It as the hammer twist is in the breach pictured above, which is done on the traditions rifle. But in order to do it right I would be willing to scrimp and save in order to get the right lock to do it. As it is it may take a bit of time before I can obtain everything in proper order.