News:

Established July of 2008, and still going strong! 

Main Menu

Trigger pulls and lock work

Started by mongrel, July 09, 2013, 02:54:52 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Red Badger

Quote from: Darkhorse on May 23, 2017, 02:59:02 AM
I know this is an old post but may I add something to the discussion?
Some/all/many of the imported production locks out there only have tumblers that are case hardened. Meaning if one does much stoning on the notches then you are stoning off the heat treated metal. Soon the metal that remains will begin to crumble and one day when you cock your rifle you'll get an "Accidental Discharge". If everybody is lucky the rifle will be pointing in a safe direction. It doesn't get any better after your tumbler reaches this stage, only worse.
Years ago I was mentored by a now/sometimes, retired lock maker of national repute. One of the first things he told me was anyone who took stones to a tumbler to lower the trigger pull doesn't understand what makes a lock tick. There are better ways of doing things.

I did not know that...  Thank you for the information.

Jim
"The table is small signifying one prisoner alone against his or her suppressors..."

beowulf

Quote from: Darkhorse on May 23, 2017, 02:59:02 AM
I know this is an old post but may I add something to the discussion?
Some/all/many of the imported production locks out there only have tumblers that are case hardened. Meaning if one does much stoning on the notches then you are stoning off the heat treated metal. Soon the metal that remains will begin to crumble and one day when you cock your rifle you'll get an "Accidental Discharge". If everybody is lucky the rifle will be pointing in a safe direction. It doesn't get any better after your tumbler reaches this stage, only worse.
Years ago I was mentored by a now/sometimes, retired lock maker of national repute. One of the first things he told me was anyone who took stones to a tumbler to lower the trigger pull doesn't understand what makes a lock tick. There are better ways of doing things.
I`ll agree with 98% of this , but apparently he never ran across a 28 gauge spanish muzzleloader from the 1960s , the lock internals are all tool marks, I have one at the moment , and owned one back in the late 70s , that first one had a trigger pull so hard you could tie a pair of cinder blocks to a cord  loop it over the trigger , and pick the gun up vertically by the barrel without setting off the lock , the newer one had probably a good 15 pound pull !  very careful polishing brought both down to a reasonable level , and that old one still shoots to this day , 2 more years it`ll be 40 years since the internals were cleaned up ! the only other way to make either gun work would have been to install a new lock .  that was not an option at the time . but yeah , unless you know what you are doing , dont do it !  not a job that should be done by a novice !

Darkhorse

I did not intend to, or attempt to "teach or preach" concerning locks and trigger pulls, I only mentioned a condition present in some tumblers and the dangers of using a stone to attempt and lower the trigger pull weight. And I do not condone any modification of a lock. If it needs modification it should be sent back to the manufacturer.
What I did not mention was a patient and complete polishing of the lock plate and friction points is one thing neccessary to improve the function of any lock.

beowulf

Quote from: Darkhorse on May 25, 2017, 12:58:51 AM
I did not intend to, or attempt to "teach or preach" concerning locks and trigger pulls, I only mentioned a condition present in some tumblers and the dangers of using a stone to attempt and lower the trigger pull weight. And I do not condone any modification of a lock. If it needs modification it should be sent back to the manufacturer.
What I did not mention was a patient and complete polishing of the lock plate and friction points is one thing neccessary to improve the function of any lock.
I agree with that completely !  the problem with the guns I mentioned is the fact that they have`nt been manufactured since the mid 60s . so unless one can find a new lock that will fit , there`s not much choice other than a careful polishing of the surfaces ! something that should not be done by the inexperienced !  I`m very carefull with that kind of work , no more than is absolutely required to make it function properly ! agree with mongrel that there is generally no reason to mess with a cva lock . have owned several over the years , and for what they are , they function well !

DandJofAZ

Quote from: gunmaker on July 09, 2013, 03:43:42 PM
Well said Mike,  A very important topic.  Anyone affronted by this has never seen a gunshot wound.  There's NO call back in shooting, "sorry"  just won't cut it.  Leave those locks alone !! Change the tgr pivot point if possible to lighten up pull, don't touch a lock unless your trained by a master.  ....Tom   who's seen way too many wounds.
Polished and changed pivot point for cheap pistola given to me.  Kit gun from 1970's put together by someone who had never fired a pistola before.  Longer trigger pull but light enough to shoot without staining. Now one of my grandsons owns it and enjoys it without complaining of long pull. Left sear engagement alone.