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Sighting in

Started by Lightning Ross, February 18, 2012

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Lightning Ross

I saw some stainless steel rods with guides from track of the wolf. I think they were around 35 bucks. Or I can git a brass rod at the hardware store and have my machinist friend drill and tap it. Cloesest black powder place would be in Tucson. But I think they cater to the sass shooters.It would be about 60 miles by road 15 by crow I just don't have a crow.

Rev

Good point. Almost any, if not all, rods will create issues over time. Not sure what the answer is...

mongrel

#17
Quote from: Lightning Ross on February 19, 2012
I saw some stainless steel rods with guides from track of the wolf. I think they were around 35 bucks. Or I can git a brass rod at the hardware store and have my machinist friend drill and tap it. Cloesest black powder place would be in Tucson. But I think they cater to the sass shooters.It would be about 60 miles by road 15 by crow I just don't have a crow.

The problem you will probably have with either a stainless rod or one made of brass (unless you drop down to a 5/16" diameter) is that, if you intend to keep it under the barrel of the gun in place of the original ramrod, the ramrod pipes of the Spanish-made rifles are usually too small an inside diameter to allow a true 3/8" diameter rod to pass through them. Naturally, having said that, I will receive seventy-three-thousand replies and PM's informing me that the senders' CVA pipes DO accomodate 3/8" rods, but this has been my experience in dealing with a lot of CVA/Traditions guns.

If the rod will be kept separate from the rifle then whether it fits the pipes or not is a moot point. You might want to fabricate a wooden rod just for appearances (in this case a hardware-store dowel bought for 69 cents will work just fine) but even that might not be an issue to your way of thinking.

I apologize for dwelling on ramrods and having very little to say about how to tweak better accuracy from your rifle. I build guns but am not a very good shot, by shooting-match standards. I kill deer reliably within woods-hunting range and practice enough to continue to be able to do so, and that's where my interest in accuracy ends. However, some of the other folks who've already chimed in, here, and who will continue to do so, are excellent shots and their advice is well-worth testing.

mongrel

#18
BTW, having lived in northern Arizona (and Rev down north of Phoenix will also vouch for this) -- the Arizona Desert Crow is a treacherous and untrustworthy bird that, if utilized to transport you "as the crow flies", will invariably drop you in searing-hot desert, cawing with evil glee and then inviting vultures to come perch on the cacti while waiting for you to die.

Driving is slower but far safer.

You will also receive numerous BS attempts at humor if you regularly post here. Welcome to the forum.... blah

Lightning Ross

I was born and raised on a dairy farm in Nw Ore. Cut timber for 10 years then started shoeing horses. I moved to Se Az 6 years ago to get away from Ex wives relatives and rain. Just as soon as I found out my drivers license was good in other states.I have a BS in BS.And have to keep a sense of humor because of all the people that have horses and never even have taken care of a gold fish before.I am married to a pro barrel racer and she is gone a lot.My groups may be caused by owner operator problems.My name is Lightning Ross Not because I am fast or bright. I just never hit the same place twice.I am working on my technique.I have never missed a deer or elk or coyote I have ever shot at.But I have let a lot go. for another day. I am not a long range sniper by any means. I don't think I have ever killed an animal more than 80 yards away. The desert Suits me I am 55 years old and grumpy. This rifles purpose is so I can shoot and not spend a bunch of time reloading cartridges in my shop.

Blackfeet

#20
Sounds like you will fit in nicely here thmbsup

I have one bit of related experience in regard to the ramrod/bore wear issue. As a toolmaker I very often, as in daily, had to polish in radii in hardened toolsteel draw dies. This was accomplished by applying several different grit diamond paste componds to a hardwood dowel and allowing it to ride by hand pressure alone on the radius while spinning at high rpm. The paste impregnated the hickory so well and easily, with no application force, that we had to sand down to raw wood to change grits if we were using the same stick. In fact, we often could do several dies with one application if separate sticks were used. This was not possible using delrin or other synthetics as the grit did not stick noticeably and diamond paste is not cheap.

As to the synthetics themselves wearing the steel...............I could see fiberglass being an issue for sure.

The key to using stainless rods is to wipe the rod often. Brass and aluminum range rods are softer and should be cleaned and examined for imbedded grit.

flintboomer

Quote from: Rev on February 19, 2012
Good point. Almost any, if not all, rods will create issues over time. Not sure what the answer is...

The only way I know to keep a bore pristine is to NEVER SHOOT IT and keep it well oiled.

Personally, I will shoot them, clean them and accept whatever wear happens as a normal part of what I do. It takes a long time to wear them out from shooting and cleaning.  hntr

Dogshirt

It ain't no fun just hangin' on the wall! hntr

pilgrim

     Dogshirt I hope you feel the same way about your FLINTLOCK    ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL

Dogshirt

I TRY to shoot the d@m^ thing, but it doesn't cooperate. Plan on sellin' it to some pilgrim and gettin' a REAL rifle! :mini-devil-28492:

flintboomer

Quote from: Dogshirt on February 20, 2012
I TRY to shoot the d@m^ thing, but it doesn't cooperate. Plan on sellin' it to some pilgrim and gettin' a REAL rifle! :mini-devil-28492:

SEND IT TO ME AND I WILL FIND OUT WHETHER IT IS THE RIFLE OR THE  :mini-devil-28492:  HOLDING IT!
ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL blah

Papa

Mongrel,
I agree with you re muzzle wear, over time, with either wooden or synthetic rods. I don't use the synthetics, by choice, but always use a properly sized muzzle protector for loading and cleaning.
Mark

dusty hill

i'll be lookin fer Dog Shirt runnin around monroe with that flinter. maybe he will give er one more try just befer the sho and it will go cheap

Dogshirt

I'll be there, but I don't think IT will. I have some stock work to do and I don't know if I'll get it done in time. If we don't flood again
I'll see if I can get to it.

Red Badger

to get this train back on track... I just received the new Muzzleloader Magazine, and Mike Nesbit has an interesting article on sighting in or re sighting in as the case may be....

Just went out and put 5 rounds through Patience at 50 yards (for the bench rest shoot) and found that either me or her (probably me) is just a bit off center... will have to play with her some but I also noticed that I had previously had to move the rear sight a bit and now it is a bit loose in the dovetail.  Can I shim it or should I get a new sight and file it into place?  Not sure what kinda sight to get as the one that is on it is a plain rectangle with a notch in it.  Don't know nothing about the other types of sights that would be correct on an Early Lancaster.
"The table is small signifying one prisoner alone against his or her suppressors..."