Trigger requires some fetling

[krankieone]

Now I had the chance to fire my old fowler it is obvious I need to sort out the trigger .If you squeeze the trigger it just returns to half cock you really have to yank on it to get it to fire.I removed the lock and noticed the hole for the pin that the trigger pivots on has elongingated and the tang acted on by the trigger has been bent to take up the slack the lock works fine out of the gun.

Before anyone gets the wrong idea I'm not after a 2lb trigger pull I just want the gun to fire when you use the trigger normally

Being a 200 year old gun any work I do to it I would like to do in a sympathetic manner so not to affect its value.I was thinking of inserting brass bushings in the stock for the trigger pivot pin .

any other suggestions?

[pilgrim]

    first check that the long screws that secure the lock to the frame are not overly tight,  this will have a adverse effect.   

[Dogshirt]

Is it the hole in the stock, or in the trigger itself? If it is in the stock, it can be drilled out to the largest dimension, plugged and redrilled. If in the trigger it can be tig welded and redrilled. To use brass bushings the stock will have to be drilled any way.

[krankieone]

I pulled the lock off again after checking the lock screws weren't overly tight .The holes are in the stock Dogshirt ,but I'm not sure my original diagnosis was correct


when I move the pin to where it appears to have originally have come from the trigger's stroke is restricted and can only move 1/2 as far so I'm wondering if this hole was slotted by the maker .

So I turned my attention to the lock having not seen the back of a lock before I pulled this one off the other day I really just guessing how it should function normally.


At full cock



When the trigger is pulled it is not it is not moving the lever enough to clear the notch for half cock unless you pull it really quickly.My first thought is that it has worn the top off the full cock notch and is releasing before the trigger is depressed enough to clear the half cock notch.

Has any one got any ideas or opinions ?

Part of me wants to head out to the shed and make a new part with a higher step at the full cock position but I don't really want to spend 8 or 10 hours making something if it isn't going to fix the problem.

[Dogshirt]

One thing I notice in the picture of your lock at full cock is the "Geometry" appears wrong. The full cock notch "shelf" should be in a straight line with the center of the tumbler pivot. Yours appears to pass behind that center. Without having it in hand it is hard to tell.
Another thing, from your description, it sounds like you could make a "taller" trigger, bringing the back up higher to bring it in contact with the sear. Having a fly put in the tumbler would also fix your issue.
I wish Mongrel was around more, I'm sure he would have a few more ideas on it.

[Patocazador]

It's very difficult for me to tell much with the fuzzy photos. If your camera has a macro setting, use that with light projected from several angles to eliminate shadows.

[krankieone]

One thing I notice in the picture of your lock at full cock is the "Geometry" appears wrong. The full cock notch "shelf" should be in a straight line with the center of the tumbler pivot. Yours appears to pass behind that center. Without having it in hand it is hard to tell.
Another thing, from your description, it sounds like you could make a "taller" trigger, bringing the back up higher to bring it in contact with the sear. Having a fly put in the tumbler would also fix your issue.
I wish Mongrel was around more, I'm sure he would have a few more ideas on it.

Thank you for your responses Gentlemen

What is a fly?

It's very difficult for me to tell much with the fuzzy photos. If your camera has a macro setting, use that with light projected from several angles to eliminate shadows.

I will try to take some clearer photos in the daylight.

[beowulf]

maybe I`m wrong , but it looks like there`s a lot of dirt in and around the lock parts ! clean it out good with a tooth brush and hot soapy water , allow it to dry then put a bit of lite oil on it !  should be able to get a more detaile photo without the crud build up !

[Dogshirt]

A fly is a TINY bit of metal that pivots at the half cock notch. It swings out of the way on cocking, but drops back into place and lets the sear ride over the notch when firing.

Here is a link to a page on lock function with all the parts indicated and discussed. Hope this helps.

http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/lockfunction.html.

[Red Badger]

being a 200 year old gun it may be worth some money so before you do any alterations other than cleaning I would have it appraised and be sure that you want to do anything and weather the risk will be worth the reward.   For any of the things mentioned in this thread I would suggest that unless you feel very comfortable working on the lock you hire a professional to do the work.

Red Badger

[krankieone]

it got pretty busy on the farm being late spring here and I had to set this aside for a couple of weeks which allowed me to think about it awhile.
Being rather conscious that it is an antique and not wanting to damage any of the original parts I decided to have a go at making a new tumbler as I'm pretty sure that is the problem and if it doesn't solve the problem I can put the original back in and go of to see the gunsmith .

pulled the lock apart to have a good lookout the tumbler




and then started roughing out a new one in the lathe

[Red Badger]

Looks like you have the tools and training to take a stab at it... Let us know how it works... and don't lose the original pieces!