lyman trigger work

[mrclean100]

I have a lyman gpr that i really enjoy shooting . The only thing I'd like to improve on is the trigger pull, its pretty heavy . Its bone stock & non adjustable . I'm assuming there is a stock removal method that works and is safe . I'm looking for advice / directions . A pic or 2 would be great .

[Hawken50]

  Does said gpr have set triggers.

[pilgrim]

     The GPr should have set riggers.  Rear trigger when pulled, sets the front for a Hair trigger.  If you are only pulling the front rigger, it will be rather heavy. 

[Dogshirt]

If it is a GPR, there is a factory limit on adjustment to rule out folks doing something GROSSLY unsafe. Beyond that, the trigger should adjust to a very nice let off. Mine is set for just a couple of pounds. As stated, it should be set triggers, if the barrel says "Great Plains Rifle" and it does NOT have set triggers, you have a GPR barrel in a different stock, like a "Trade Rifle".

[mongrel]

Removal of metal to allow a lighter set-trigger pull is possible, but so is the very distinct danger of removing too much or overheating a part to the point it will wear and no longer engage positively at any weight of pull. If you feel you absolutely have to have it done and don't know what's involved, don't solicit advice and attempt to do it yourself -- take the triggers to a professional gunsmith

[Huntin_Dawg1215]

    Sound Wisdom

[pilgrim]

     This may be an alternative to reworking the trigger.  Cost $41.00 plus shippig


     http://www.redaviscompany.com/1007.html

[William]

Turn the adjustment screw (in between the front and rear triggers) counterclockwise to increase the amount of pull needed to trip the set or front trigger, clockwise to decrease it.  The range of adjustment is limited by Lyman to preclude the set trigger being lightened enough to be unsafe, and when you reach that point it just won't engage.  I just recently went through trigger problems with my GPR that occurred due to the main spring screw loosening up and getting things out of alignment.  You have to pull the trigger to see this screw which is at the back everything.  There is also another very small screw that limits the distance the spring will travel, which is different than the adjustment screw and if this isn't just right it causes all sorts of problems.  Take a look at how both triggers work and see adjusting the position and tension on these two screws affects things.  It doesn't take more than 1/8 of a turn on either of these screws to throw everything out of whack so go slowly if you adjust either one.

Here's the diagram and manual http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/muzzle-loaders/pdfs/lyc-ml-gp.pdf
The screw I am referring to is not shown on the diagram but is right behind the rear trigger but even though you can adjust it without pulling the trigger assembly I would advise against it.  See if this helps things.

[mrclean100]

Yes it has the factory set triggers . bought as a kit and i enjoyed building it but I'm not seeing an adjustment screw .

[Hawken50]

  Should be between the two triggers.

[William]

Yes it has the factory set triggers . bought as a kit and i enjoyed building it but I'm not seeing an adjustment screw .

You can't see it too well without removing the trigger guard, and when you remove that you cannot get the lock to work properly without holding the front part of the trigger plate flush with the stock because the trigger guard, at least in the front, holds the trigger assembly in place.  In other words, remove the guard as well as the trigger assembly, then both the adjustment screw as well as the mainspring retaining as well as the tension screw can be clearly seen.  If there is an empy hole in between the two triggers then you need to get a new one, same as the tension screw.

[William]

Yes it has the factory set triggers . bought as a kit and i enjoyed building it but I'm not seeing an adjustment screw .

You can't see it too well without removing the trigger guard, and when you remove that you cannot get the lock to work properly without holding the front part of the trigger plate flush with the stock because the trigger guard, at least in the front, holds the trigger assembly in place.  In other words, remove the guard as well as the trigger assembly, then both the adjustment screw as well as the mainspring retaining as well as the tension screw can be clearly seen.  If there is an empy hole in between the two triggers then you need to get a new one, same as the tension screw.

I found a great picture of the trigger assembly whcih shows the adjustment screw as well as the tension screw;