So yesterday I went to a new club that has a woods walk and unknowing to me about 6 of the stations are hawk and knife throws , I had to borrow another shooters and he was kind enough to let me but next month I want to have my own gear . I already have a hawk but I'm gonna need to make a knife of which I have no idea on what size or design so I'm asking for some guidance . I'm guessing 3/16 thick but as for blade shape and length and handle length and where the balance point should be ???
Thanks , Tim
I am no Knife maker but a Google of Throwing Knives will give you some Ideas... The one I Use is
on the Blanket, a Jeff White....And in a Block at Grassy Run
I have made many knives for boy scouts and the guys I shoot with. They are simple and super easy to make. I use 1/4" by 2" bar stock steel, cut out a rough shape then an angle grinder to finish the shape and sharpen the tip. Official ATKA rules state 13" in length and weighing in at one pound. I use leather scales held on with copper rivets and the balance point should be in the middle or just a bit blade heavy.
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a603/hotfxr/Blades/Blades005_zpse540d2b6.jpg) (http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/hotfxr/media/Blades/Blades005_zpse540d2b6.jpg.html)
I change the taper a bit to adjust the center of gravity. Even though I use cheap scrap steel, when I make up a batch I harden the tip then temper them in the Webber and have had no trouble with them bending.
Most importantly, When I make up 6 or more at a time, they cost me less that $1 a piece. Several hours of course, but "on the cheap" which is the mantra we live by.
Most of all, it's a ton of fun.
hotfxr,.. Those are some Awesome looking Knives! thmbsup And thanks for helping the Boy Scouts flwa
We have two that hotfxr sent to my grandkids and they throw great. And as many times as the kids have "bounced" them, they hold up just fine! Thanks again by the way! ;D
old lawnmower blades or leaf springs from old cars can be used
I have a shaped blank around somewhere that I bought a long time ago but never did anything with if I didn't give up and throw it away.
Hotfxr is right about using leather with copper rivets, the handle is supposed to be of "natural materials" and leather works best.
Flintboomer reminded me, I have the blank that I used still. I am down to just a few and it is getting nigh on time to whip out some more. If I can figure out how, I will trace it out on paper and email you a pdf with it on it. It's nothing special just after a ton of trial and error it works with the least amount of adjusting.
I have a set of leafs from a 67 camaro which one day I will tackle, it's just harder to cut & grind. The best ones I ever made (which I gave away, it makes me happy) were made from old rusted and broken flat pry bars that I dug out of metal recycling bins. Remember, "On the cheap"is what we are.
Look back on some of my older posts on this subject and the 60 or so 'Hawks I made (again, almost all given to boy scouts) that are super cheap to make and usually hold up great for throwing.
I have the one that Hotfxr made me and as well as it throws I keep it handy in my boot. Not that I go looking for trouble but it is nice to have something I can depend upon while in a "Gun Free" Zone
Thanks all for the ideas , I just got one finished up yesterday I cut it out of a small flat pry bar it's hard and springy not sure what it's made of But I missed the target this morning and it actually stuck in a old concrete block retaining wall the wood was leaning against , hit the mortar joint and to my amazement the tip with fine ! Used 3/16 rawhide for the scales . I think it should work well
Tim
Quote from: Tim Ault on July 04, 2017
Thanks all for the ideas , I just got one finished up yesterday I cut it out of a small flat pry bar it's hard and springy not sure what it's made of But I missed the target this morning and it actually stuck in a old concrete block retaining wall the wood was leaning against , hit the mortar joint and to my amazement the tip with fine ! Used 3/16 rawhide for the scales . I think it should work well
Tim
Very cool. My computer must be acting up as I couldn't see the pictures you posted of the knife. You did post pictures didn't you?
wtch
Quote from: hotfxr on July 04, 2017
Quote from: Tim Ault on July 04, 2017
Thanks all for the ideas , I just got one finished up yesterday I cut it out of a small flat pry bar it's hard and springy not sure what it's made of But I missed the target this morning and it actually stuck in a old concrete block retaining wall the wood was leaning against , hit the mortar joint and to my amazement the tip with fine ! Used 3/16 rawhide for the scales . I think it should work well
Tim
Very cool. My computer must be acting up as I couldn't see the pictures you posted of the knife. You did post pictures didn't you?
No sorry I didn't yet it's not very photogenic as in rough looking I changed the plan in my head half way through the design it started out as a drop point hunter type blade with a finger cutout and integral guard . Not a traditional shape I know ! BUT functional ! Don't know if it spins correctly though . From the line/ distance I get my hawk to stick I have to hold and throw by the blade to get the knife to stick ? If I take a step and a half forward I can throw holding the handle . Is this normal and I'll try getting a pic up this evening
Quote from: Tim Ault on July 05, 2017
Quote from: hotfxr on July 04, 2017
Quote from: Tim Ault on July 04, 2017
Thanks all for the ideas , I just got one finished up yesterday I cut it out of a small flat pry bar it's hard and springy not sure what it's made of But I missed the target this morning and it actually stuck in a old concrete block retaining wall the wood was leaning against , hit the mortar joint and to my amazement the tip with fine ! Used 3/16 rawhide for the scales . I think it should work well
Tim
Very cool. My computer must be acting up as I couldn't see the pictures you posted of the knife. You did post pictures didn't you?
No sorry I didn't yet it's not very photogenic as in rough looking I changed the plan in my head half way through the design it started out as a drop point hunter type blade with a finger cutout and integral guard . Not a traditional shape I know ! BUT functional ! Don't know if it spins correctly though . From the line/ distance I get my hawk to stick I have to hold and throw by the blade to get the knife to stick ? If I take a step and a half forward I can throw holding the handle . Is this normal and I'll try getting a pic up this evening
I would say it is not normal as everyone I've watched throw from the same distance by the handles. Try stepping BACK 1 1/2 and see if it will also stick from the handle. It sounds as if it might be "handle heavy", but that is just a guess without pictures or hands on.
(//)here it be the balance point in right at the guard
How long is it? Both of mine are 12 1/2+" and balance about 1 3/4" in front of where a guard WOULD be if they had one. Basically they are weight forward. I remember reading that a knife should heavier toward the blade to facilitate rotation. Also, what is the weight? My Jeff White weighs 1lb 5oz. A heavier knife throws easier.
Tim,
Sounds to me like you are going to have to change the balance point. To throw in any sanctioned match, or Friendship, you have to throw by the handle.
Mark
Quote from: Dogshirt on July 05, 2017
How long is it? Both of mine are 12 1/2+" and balance about 1 3/4" in front of where a guard WOULD be if they had one. Basically they are weight forward. I remember reading that a knife should heavier toward the blade to facilitate rotation. Also, what is the weight? My Jeff White weighs 1lb 5oz. A heavier knife throws easier.
The blade portion is a little over 5 and the handle 4.5ish not sure of weigh its abouts .165" thick ? Yeah gonna put this one away and use it as I originally intended as a drop point hunter and see if I have time today at work to cut out another with different shape and length .
To Hotfxr or anyone else for that matter in your post with the knives you made I got the overall 13"X1 7/8" diamensions But how long is the handle portion and the width I'm thinkin 4.5 ish x 3/4 ?
Tim
Quote from: Tim Ault on July 06, 2017
To Hotfxr or anyone else for that matter in your post with the knives you made I got the overall 13"X1 7/8" diamensions But how long is the handle portion and the width I'm thinkin 4.5 ish x 3/4 ?
Tim
I aim for 4 3/4" from the bottom of the handle to where the radius starts at the bottom of the blade part. The handles are 3/4" wide. Since I am mostly shaping them with an angle grinder there is a bit of variation but generally not more than an 1/8" or so. I adjust the balance by grinding off material. If I remember correctly the balance point is about 1 1/4" forward of the center line before I attach the scales.
I bought a Pak I Stan taos trapper or some such with bone handles,busted them off and put on leather slabs ,It holds a good edge for real knife work and throws good toohttp://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/4926-026-001-900x900_540x540.jpg
Quote from: markinmi on August 12, 2017
I bought a Pak I Stan taos trapper or some such with bone handles,busted them off and put on leather slabs ,It holds a good edge for real knife work and throws good toohttp://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/4926-026-001-900x900_540x540.jpg
If you are happy with it then that's all that matters but if you are planning on doing any Rendezvous, Buck skinning or historical reenactment events then that knife won't cut it, pun intended. Those steel /metal bolsters are 20th century and would have to be removed. You may have done so already when you switched to leather but again, if you're not attending a juried event then your satisfaction is the only thing that matters.
I use this knife, if yo search ebay you can get one for about 14 bucks. The bone handles will come off the first throw ,then replace with leather slabs,holds a decent edge and makes a good camp knife and you dont need to hall around a three lb chunk of metel on your hip