I have a container of Triple7 laying around and thought I'd give the stuff a try. I have never used Triple7 before. I usually use Pyrodex RS in my muzzleloaders with good results. Real Blackpowder is hard to come by where I live. I think I've read some where that Triple7 burns hotter and to adjust my regular measurements with this in mind. I absolutely no nothing about Triple7. I don't even remember how I came about having the stuff. Can anyone educate me on using Triple7, and also the pros and cons about it? Any advice or information would be most welcomed. Respectfully, cowboys1062.
Simply go to Hogdon's site for load data.
after reading this , and the rest of the info on the sight , I dont think I personally will ever try the stuff MISUSE WARNING
Use of Triple Seven Pellets and Pyrodex Pellets in sidelock muzzleloading rifles, in flintlock muzzleloading rifles, using a patched round ball, or the use of conical lead bullets without a fiber wad is NOT recommended. Due to variations in the size and type of flash channels of such rifles, as well as different rifle bore diameters, and conical bullet sizes, hangfires (a delayed ignition of the Pellet) or an improper gas seal of the projectile may occur. These conditions could cause the projectile or a burning Pellet to exit the barrel in a hazardous manner, which could cause personal injury or death to the user or bystander, as well as damage to the firearm.
I've used Triple 7 powder, NOT pellets, in percussion muzzleloaders for several years. I tried Pyrodex P & RG awhile back, & had too many ignition problems. With 777 or real blackpowder, I use fiber wads under conicals. but roundball just gets a lubed patch. I've also used 777 in my Pedersoli caplock dbl. 12 ga. barrel & my Pedersoli 45/70 Sharps. Straight water will clean it w/o problems but since I use Ballistisol & water for cleaning when I clean after shooting blackpowder, I also use it for 777. Just reduce your blackpowder loads by 12-15 % and you should be good to go.
will the triple 7 powder work in flintlocks ?
I usually use it for hunting (loose powder, not pellets) and have never had a problem with it.
I use real black for all my target work.
If I'm carrying a flinter I use real black powder and I don't know whether 777 would work, but it does have a higher ignition point than black and would be similar to using pyrodex, so I suggest not using it in a flinter.
Those who have tried 777 in a rocklock quickly go back to real black.
kind of what I figured !
The Triple7 that I have is 2F in powder form. It's not pellets. I'm going to give it a go and adjust my normal load by about 10% less than I would use if I were using Pyrodex RS. I will let all you know how my muzzleloaders shoot using the stuff. Thankyou all for the information and suggestions! Was very helpful. Respectfully, cowboys1062.
If it helps you can order real black Goex from powder inc in lots of 5 lbs or more - ....
Some folks claim it will work in flintlocks, some say it won't. According to Traditions, if you have a Traditions PA Pellet Rifle, if you put 5 gr. of real black powder down bore first, 777 or Pyrodex will work. My cousin has a TC, I think it's a Firestorm or some such model flinter that he uses Pyrodex pellets in w/o putting any blackpowder in. Pyrodex pellets have blackpowder on the end that goes down bore 1st, 777 pellets don't. I just stick w/real blackpowder in my flinters & use the 777 powder in my caplocks that like it. I've got a couple that prefer the holy black & that's what they get.
I`ve used pyrodex when nothing else was available , at least in percussion . never tried it in a flinter , but I did some experimentation to see if the spark from the frizzen would ignite the stuff . crush it into a finer powder and it does work . burns very hot , one day I might try a blank load in a flintlock just to satisfy curiosity ! [hmm]
Quote from: cowboys1062 on June 03, 2015
The Triple7 that I have is 2F in powder form. It's not pellets. I'm going to give it a go and adjust my normal load by about 10% less than I would use if I were using Pyrodex RS. I will let all you know how my muzzleloaders shoot using the stuff. Thankyou all for the information and suggestions! Was very helpful. Respectfully, cowboys1062.
That is the thing to do if T-7 is all you can get and in my experience it doesn't cause nearly as many ignition problems, including one very painful hang-fire, than Pyrodex. Plus the powder fouling is not nearly as nasty but again, in my experience; yours may differ. If you just have to use T-7 in your muzzle loader see if you can find or borrow some 4f Goex from a fellow black powder shooter for your prime. A pound of 4f lasts for years, literally because you use so few grains in the pan. Now, I've never done this as I switched to using only Goex before I got my first flintlock but it makes sense to me that 4f in the pan will ignite a main charge of Triple 7 reliably. I will also echo what others have said as far as ordering your gun powder even if it's only in the minimum 5 pound increments. The price will be the same or maybe a dollar a pound cheaper than retail and if you're like me, 5 pounds lasts a good long while. Of course, the best way to do it is to get a group together and order 25 pounds to get the best cost savings but sometimes finding 5 or more people to go in on an order isn't possible. It does drop the price of the powder down considerably though. Anyway, I forget now if T-7 is one of those substitutes that will absorb water from the humidity but I would still keep it sealed tightly when it is stored.
Good luck and let us know how you do.
triple seven is great and I happen to love the stuff. My percussion rifles eat it all the time, 2F is my preferred powder. I can shoot twenty rounds and have had no trouble with it, no build up, nothing, and it is easy to clean the gun after use. Sure a lot of negative stuff on here, and I don't understand why. When I got my first muzzle loader rifle I was told it burns cleaner with less clean up problems, and I've found that to be true. I'll use it til heck freezes over.
Another old thread I want to jump in on. I usually use Pyrodex RS in my .50's and .54's and P in my .45's but neither work well in my .36 cal squirrel rifle. Even pyrodex gunks up too much in that little bore so I use 3f 777 in my squirrel gun and have no problems with excessive fowling. 777 also works well in my revolvers.
Topbreak
Topbreak, I've never used any of the subs in a gun but know that many do. I've never had a fouling problem in the .36 or the .32. It's often reported that they foul worse than larger bores; but I have not found this to be so. I've noticed no difference between the .32 and the .54, for instance. I never have to swab the bore on my .32 during a shooting session of up to 50 rounds. The 25th shot loads as easily as the second.
Patch and lube seem to be the determining factor for preventing fouling buildup. I use Hoppes #9 BP lube, or something similar, for general shooting and mink oil for hunting. I cut patches from .018"-.019" cotton duck and .024" unbleached canvas. Occasionally, a rifle will do best with pillow or mattress ticking and I keep some on hand. My loads are tight and clean the last shots fouling when seated. And they are easily seated with the wood underbarrel rod.
Polishing the muzzle crown and relieving the sharp transition to the lands makes loading tight loads quite doable. That task is easily accomplished with the thumb/finger tip and sandpaper. This is the best way I know of to shoot all day and have less fouling.
Quote from: topbreak on April 07, 2019
Another old thread I want to jump in on. I usually use Pyrodex RS in my .50's and .54's and P in my .45's but neither work well in my .36 cal squirrel rifle. Even pyrodex gunks up too much in that little bore so I use 3f 777 in my squirrel gun and have no problems with excessive fowling. 777 also works well in my revolvers.
Topbreak
that`s good to know !
Used T7 in my 58. 100 gr and it would group nicely.