Traditional Muzzleloading on the Cheap

Member’s Work Bench => General Gunsmithing => Topic started by: Micanopy on January 23, 2015

Title: Other than
Post by: Micanopy on January 23, 2015
not being h/c, what would the problems be associated with an aluminum lock plate?
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: gunmaker on January 23, 2015
Wear in tumbler hole.  Unless you use a steel insert-like is done with a brass lock plate.   You start on that rifle yet ?
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: Micanopy on January 23, 2015
putting a parts list together, starting with this stock I think;
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/900/1/STK-JVI figuring out if I want .36 or .40 cal. I have all the inlays picked out, have to modify a couple but from the sketch work it wont be hard.
I was digging thru some stuff today and found some heavy duty aluminum flat bar stock that is the perfect thickness, figured other than trying to brown or blue it, it could be anodized, it would work for a replacement lock for a worn out one on an original so I could shoot it, add in a bronz bushing to the tumbler and it would work. easy enough to do. I have seen brass lock plates, odd looking but they do work, on a couple of reworks.
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: beowulf on January 23, 2015
have used aluminum on occasion for guards on small knives . it`s softer than brass , and can be a pain in the nether regions to work .  but it could be done .
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: Micanopy on January 24, 2015
might be a good practice run?
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: Hawken50 on January 24, 2015
 [hmm]  If aluminum it would probably have to be a good bit thicker....maybe?
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: Micanopy on January 24, 2015
hmm, not so sure it would have to be any thicker than the steel lock plate on the rifle as of now. As with steel plates, if it isnt over tightend it wouldnt flex and would remain aligned properly.
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: mongrel on January 24, 2015
Aluminum works so much differently than steel that it wouldn't seem to me to be a good practice run. Sort of like using a soft pine plank to build a practice stock. It really doesn't prepare you for working harder woods since its working qualities are so different. Is there a reason that makes aluminum your first choice of lockplate material? You can buy three-foot flats of plain steel in 1/8" or 3/16" thicknesses, at most Lowe's stores, and if there's a Fastenal outlet near you their selection of metals is even better. You might consider looking for a flat of stainless if it's the bright white appearance you favor.
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: beowulf on January 24, 2015
my biggest concern with aluminum is corrosion.  when new and polished up it looks good , but when aluminum corrodes it really corrodes .  mostly when in contact with alkiline substances .  as long as it`s not in contact with such things it will stay firly decent looking , though it will develope a coating of aluminum oxcide ! if you want the plate to stay bright I`d go with mongrels suggestion , stainless steel .
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: gunmaker on January 24, 2015
If I was going to use my own hand made lock, think I'd want a stock without the mortise cut, cheaper too.  You can match the Vincent mortise tho, they do make into nice rifles.  Tom
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: Papa on January 24, 2015
I did a set of sight riser blocks on a target rifle out of aluminum once. The recoil battered the hell out of them and the front sight fell out. If I was going to take the time and effort to make a lock I think I'd do it the first time so that it would be correct in functioning and durability. This is not an easy project.
Mark
Title: Re: Other than
Post by: Micanopy on January 24, 2015
Ok gents, thank you for all the imput. Scratch the aluminum plate. Was just thinking since I had it from building a cross bow gator fishing reel set up that worked perfectly, I would put it to good use, but this wouldnt be a good use. Onward and upward!