After clearing this with Red Badger I'd like to share with you the progress on my latest rifle. The reason that I was unsure of posting this thread was the fact that this rifle will not really fit well into the category of traditional. It's sort of a hybrid, combining some of the things that I love about traditional muzzleloaders and some of the things that I like about modern muzzleloaders.
For starters it's an underhammer which is traditional but it's a modern action albeit a very simple one as all underhammers tend to be. It's got an 28" long octagon barrel which tapers from 7/8" to 13/16" and it's percussion, utilizing a number 11 cap. That's where the traditional aspects end however.
The barrel is a 1:28" ROT (definitely not traditional) and the stock will be a 21st century design to help align my eye with the especially non-traditional 3-9 X50mm scope that will eventually sit atop the barrel.
Here's a stock photo of the Allen Foundry Underhammer Action that is to be the heart of the rifle:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/AllenUnderhammer1-1_zps17d51121.jpg)
The necessary parts acquired. I had Joe at The Gun Works fit the barrel to the action because I know from experience how tricky this can be without the proper tools.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/84C9F90F-4978-4905-BE1F-6AB192ED6421-7762-0000177B6CEBCC6C.jpg)
The 2 dimensional stock sawn out from the blanks of English Walnut an Ebay score!
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/A15A8C44-4935-484F-B789-9DBA97658ECC-7762-0000176E00FC9C6D.jpg)
Fitting the action and buttstock. Also roughing in the grip area.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/59490E01-2D92-4422-B2F0-9300494F9060-7762-00001AF13B0F46AE.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/99EFF4CA-DA08-4CAC-9501-EE5C8F6C12D0-7762-00001AF0BF1067B1.jpg)
Inletting the buttplate:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/8701DCB9-83BE-4857-8D63-DD1A00DC03CD-2101-00000701ECA9F60C.jpg)
Rough shaping the buttstock and cheek rest:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/B9004063-CE04-4778-8018-5468369C9258-2101-00000701903E5F98.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/C09994D4-6BB8-4F91-9BAB-5549A4D98B29-2101-00000701B984DDC8.jpg)
That's as far as I've gotten thus far. I think the next big step will be to mount the scope temporarily to allow me to contour the cheek rest so as to place my eye directly inline with the scope. Once I've got the cheek rest dimensions established the scope will come off and be stored away until the rifle is completed.
I'm very satisfied with the length of pull that I settled upon - 13.75" . She comes to my shoulder lightning fast and places my eye as close to perfect as can be had at this point.
Those tool marks are an eyesore but they'll all begin to disappear as the job progresses. There's still allot more wood to be removed before the final contours of the buttstock are reached.
I've got allot of little extras planned for this gun. Stick around it should be fun....
How is it you live in RI & know Joe at gun works in Springfield, Or?? I used to live near Joe & Suzy's shop and have got lots a good stuff over the years....Really good people to deal with...Tom
Fast-twist rifling is most definitely traditional -- just not overly common on American muzzleloaders. Before the flintlock was perfected, though, in roughly 1600-1610, Germanic (actual German as well as Dutch, Swiss, Scandinavians, etc) gunsmiths had pretty much covered all the bases in terms of what might make a rifle accurate -- every sort of sighting equipment other than actual scopes, and varying twists and depths of rifling. Sometimes the most common perception of "traditional" actually excludes a lot that was actually, well -- traditional. I happen to be of the opinion that our ideas of what's traditional and correct ought not be limited solely to what American gunsmiths were doing during a relatively brief portion of the muzzeloading era, and that being the case I find what you're doing perfectly traditional.
Just with a few modern twists, is all.
Looking forward to seeing progress on this one.
Gunmaker, I don't really know Joe & Suzi. I spoke with both of them at some length when I placed my order for the parts of this rifle. They were both extremely helpful. I found them on my quest to find a fast ROT barrel for this project and when I explained to Suzi what type of action I was going to use she let me know that they actually were a distributor for these actions. I was planning on buying it from Petaconica River but I'm thrilled that I was able to give Joe and Suzi the order for nearly everything that I needed. I placed the barrel order with Joe and he advised me on some of the specifics. I asked him to fit the barrel to the action and I received exactly what I wanted. So that's how I came to know these fine folks and I'd highly recommend them and their products.
Mongrel, Thanks for the education on traditional muzzleloaders and fast rates of twist. I stand corrected.
Waiting on the scope bases now. I think that I'll start on the forend in the meantime.
Got a little more shaping done last night. This is about as far as I want to go until I get the scope on. Got most of the rasp marks out and now you can get some idea of what my $35.00 piece of English walnut looks like. Not too much character. This will be a working gun after all, not a show piece. I was able to take advantage of the way the grain ran in order to get the most strength from the wood in critical areas. The base of the grip section is probably the weakest point. I can see the risk of a chip coming off if it were to take a blow just the right way. I've got plans for that grip however which will address that concern.
Shaping Up!...
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/D5E3F33F-9BFC-4CBE-8F0C-B7C12FFE1128-2101-000007E847CA367C.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/58707ED2-CE49-4C53-B037-D4FC7B162935-2101-000007E8315C8ACE.jpg)
Is that one of Joe's "Oregon BBl. co." tubes, if so they're a quality product. I can't say enough good about those 2. He was a champion muzzleloader shooter in his day, and has a lifetime of gun knowledge rattling around in his head. ....Tom
On the contrary Razor, I think the wood is showing some very pleasing character with the recent shaping and should be very interesting once finished.
I had a Lyman Great Plains Hunter barrel that had been modified to fit onto a Cabelas Hawken stock, also a 50 caliber. It was once hole accurate at 75 yards using a Lee REAL bullet, a lubed Wonder Wad and a rather heavy charge of 3f Goex. It had been drilled for a modern scope but that just wasn't for me. If you are dead set on a modern scope then by all means put one on but also consider a period look tube sight such as these;
http://www.buffaloarms.com/Products.aspx?CAT=4100
http://winchestersutler.com/BCA_Scope.html
http://hi-luxoptics.com/product/riflescopes/malcolm-replica-scope-series/
Quote from: gunmaker on January 12, 2013, 10:14:45 PM
Is that one of Joe's "Oregon BBl. co." tubes, if so they're a quality product.
It most certainly is an Oregon Barrel Co. barrel. I'm certain that I made the right choice. Thanks for the added confidence though Gunmaker. You'd be surprised how hard it is to find an octagon barrel with a 1:28" ROT. Never mind a tapered one. Joe made it to order and I had it in my hands within two weeks. Now that's simply unbelievable!!! Who provides service like that in this day and age??? Their address is : http://www.thegunworks.com/ in case anyone's interested.
I actually stumbled onto this as well, which evaluates and recommends BPCR scopes;
http://www.texas-mac.com/Searching_for_a_Cost_Effective_BPCR_Scope_Solution.html
Fast twist's are out there----but NO one beats Joe's service. Here's 2 number's of bbl. makers. Mark DeHaas in Mo. @ 660-872-6308 & Ed Rayl in Wv @ 304-364-8269 both are 1st class people, but the wait will be longer. Rayl always takes a year!!! One man one bbl is the way he does it. I have a 1:28 ROT .50 coming from Ed in next few weeks. Lets compare shot groups when we finish our guns O.K. ? keep those pic's coming, & glad your aboard....Tom
William, those scopes are gorgeous! I'd seriously consider putting one on the Allen Boxlock that you liked in this thread. http://traditionalmuzzleloadingcheap.com/forum/index.php?topic=15920.0 Those designs would be right at home on that rifle. In fact I almost purchased a brass tube version when I built that gun but the cost scared me away. ;D Thanks for the links though. I'll bookmark them because I'm still thinking of scoping that boxlock. And thanks for your kind words yet again.
This rifle will be a hybrid, combining new and old and as such I'm planning on a modern scope to compliment the modern stock architecture and to gain the large objective lens for dawn / dusk hunting. The 3 - 9 X magnification will be a welcome addition as well.
Tom, thanks for those numbers. I'll keep those too. Something tells me I'll be building a few more guns. ;D Comparing groups sounds like fun just keep in mind that I build guns better than I shoot 'em. I'm not saying that I'm a great builder but merely that I'm NOT a great shot. ;D Thanks for the warm welcome too.
Oh yea! A brass tubed scope would look really nice on that Boxlock! I've glad I could help you out and provide a little information but your craftsmanship is what garnered the compliments, keep up the good work.
Before I gave up all my CF rifles I was always happy with Leupold products and I'll leave it at that considering the nature of out forum here.
Cut the grip section back today to accept an ebony grip cap:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/7EC35743-FBCF-4F1C-8B97-F3A3AA4132D9-2101-00000A603962C1D2.jpg)
Also modified the forend to accept an ebony nosepiece:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/30D74073-4CF5-433F-A3C3-475F4DB97BB0-2101-00000A6023501431.jpg)
Once these two modifications are blended into the lines of the stock they'll add an attractive and interesting look to the rifle.
Got the grip cap and the nose piece installed and inlet the forearm for the barrel and hammer / nipple.
Grip cap installed:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/4DCAB574-D0C6-487E-B523-78C45CD5B9D2-5894-00000DA938A89D95.jpg)
Nose piece installed:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/8B579829-EC08-4067-976F-D6024F646647-5894-00000D978DE1E694.jpg)
Forend inlet to barrel:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/53DFE1DD-D974-424B-9D6F-CF979B574CF9-5894-00000DA96CD23EE3.jpg)
Forend inlet for hammer / nipple:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/629AE9AF-DD01-40B0-A65F-06CE5994005A-5894-00000D97985F3E88.jpg)
Still need to run the ramrod channel, inlet an ebony diamond center piece for the forend screw and shape the forend.
Some of the pics were taken in different lighting giving the illusion that the forend is a different piece of wood but it's not.
Could we see a copy of your resume' where'd you learn your craft Razor62. I got into this habit because I'm left handed. When I started out with muzzle loaders no left handed guns were on market---yea long time ago 1971. But there were LH parts in catalogs, So as a heavy equip. mech/welder I bought a couple a CVA kits put 'em together & then built my first one from scratch. I still shoot it, it's my go to gun even today...Tom keep it up !
dntn Man great work.Yur doin so good with sharp tools might have to change your handle to straightrazor ;D
Thank you Hawken.
Gunmaker, a resume huh? Well lets see.... Dad bought me a CVA Kentucky rifle kit when I was 15 yrs old. I rushed like any kid will do to get it together and it showed. Shot it for a few years and then I bought myself a CVA Squirrel rifle kit which I did a much better job of assembling. I sold that Kentucky rifle a long time ago but I've still got my left handed squirrel rifle. I put allot of kits together through my teens and shot 'em often then one day when I was 20, I stupidly shot a 36 or was it 32 cal. hole through my hand when my thumb slipped off while trying to lower the hammer on one of those cheap over / under twist barrel percussion pistols that they used to sell in Kmart. It wasn't completely my fault though. The top barrel missed my hand and the ball struck the ground at my feet. It was the bottom barrel that caused the damage and it never should have gone off. The darned thing chain fired!
I lost interest in muzzleloading after that for awhile and started messing around with high end pellet guns (They make much smaller holes which don't hurt nearly as much. ;D ). Started my own business in my twenties repairing airguns and eventually got into firearm restoration. Did lots and lots of hot salts and slow rust bluing and quite a bit of stock work too. I am no longer doing outside work but I still have all of the tools, my trusty bluing tanks and at least some of the knowledge.
Being a lefty myself I completely understand your learning to build your own guns rather than shooting right handed guns left handed. I've resorted to that as well. Just last year I bought my first ever left handed bolt action rifle. A CZ 452 .22 rimfire. I can't believe that I waited this long to do that. What a joy it is to shoot that rifle.
I love building muzzleloaders but I've only done a few complete builds thus far. Something tells me I'm gonna do allot more of 'em. I don't have much time for it in the summer months and I'm in the woods all through the fall so I usually take on these projects in the dead of winter. Next years project is a .50 cal, swamped barrel flint lock. Haven't decided as to what type yet?
And here I am now in the middle of building my hunting rifle for next season and hopefully many more after that.
Keep up the good work & post those pic's....Tom
A little more done on the forend last night. Made a brass escussion for the forend screw out of a plumbing fitting that I had in one of my junk drawers. Got the ebony diamond with brass escussion inlet and did a small amount of slimming things down. Now you can see the nose piece and how it contrasts with the walnut. I'm a little disappointed because that brass escussion isn't quite centered in the diamond. It's a mistake that'll haunt me forever. rdfce
Forend progress:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/507D99DF-9510-4724-B915-46FD7E35741A-6604-0000106F4ABEE030.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/FDE4AF27-9C2E-4EA6-99D2-412CC0043525-6604-0000106F3C26C79F.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/D766AA0A-ED4F-48A5-BF64-2EC868275432-6604-0000106F17967B9F.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/F760D504-A11F-4B7E-B32A-7919C4766650-6604-0000106ED6D01A34.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/F557B276-AC04-47D5-B6CB-99EE2DF2F630-6604-0000106F017D86DF.jpg)
Waiting on a new router bit so that I can run the ramrod channel. I can't begin rounding of the forend until after that's done because I need the straight edges to guide the router.
.
That's the beauty of working with squared-off blanks, isn't it? I'm asked sometimes why I don't start with precarved stocks. Because -- once an unshaped blank has been trued up so things are all square and parallel, routing barrel and ramrod channels, installing buttplates, and keeping things like triggers and tangs centered is a WHOLE lot easier. Plus on an unshaped blank you have complete control over the form the finished gun will take.
Interesting story about putting a hole through your hand. Made me cringe a little when I read that. Most people can't actually imagine -- but then most people also can't actually imagine sticking one of their hands into a running table saw blade, which is precisely what I did in August of year before last. Everything is still intact and (mostly) works, but it's the sort of experience that definitely stays with you forever....
Got my ramrod thimbles dovetailed into the barrel today. First time doing that. Forward one is a little sloppy but I think a little solder will fix that. I tried to tighten it up with a punch but it's still not perfect.
Thimbles installed:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/983CD15E-8297-42CB-A4A1-CFA0F74BC32C-7319-000013352E76A8E2.jpg)
Loose dovetail:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/12F88BA6-6CFD-47BE-8D15-EFBF233F650B-7319-000013351CBCD3E7.jpg)
Another realization presented itself to me today. With the forend designed the way I had originally planned the process of loading / unloading a #11 cap will be cumbersom at best and in all likelihood it'll border on an impossibility. There's simply no way to get my fat fingers down into that little recess in order to accomplish this task the way that I have things laid out now. As much as I don't like the idea of reshaping the forend at the nipple area into something simillar to what we see on virtually all underhammers, it seems as though I have very few options.
Here's an example of a typical underhammer forend and how it's shape is adapted to the placement of the nipple:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/underhammerforendampnipple_zpsc2e2d393.jpg)
I'm thinking of removing the wood shown in the shaded area or at least simillar to the shaded area in the next photo. I'm open to ideas which may create a more graceful flow to the forend. I'm having trouble coming up with an option that I like.
Wood to be removed:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/A8F65ED1-CCF9-4FEE-B1D9-D25B16FDAC0C-7319-00001334FE8CFFEB.jpg)
Did some more detail work on the buttstock too:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/B00C4395-8E24-4DB7-A7CF-BB19C966A353-7319-000013350C6D4F01.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/74C51BC0-DA94-47A8-BD12-75FEBAA96E2B-7319-0000133539B9D9B0.jpg)
I like it allot so far. Looking forward to hunting with her next season.
.
Where'd you get those steel pipes? Llooks like the dovetails are part of 'em, that right ? ....Tom
Yes, their cast with dovetails. You need to give your friend Joe a call Tom. He's got 'em on the shelf at The Gun Works. http://www.thegunworks.com/custprodgun.cfm?ProductID=1009&do=detail&Cat2Option=yes
I purposely went with those to keep the weight down. No need for an under rib and the forend can slim down a little further. Plus there's the added benefit of not having to drill a ramrod hole but rather simply rout a channel. Cuttin' dovetails is a little more involved than it appears to be though. ;D
Raxor,
I have a couple of UH's that have the nipple within a forearm recess similar to what you have done. I use an egg shaped capper and it works just fine. What you have started is beautful and it seems a shame to resort to a common feature. It may help if you create a slightly larger and shallower cavity for the nipple. Mine actually have brass liners in the cavity. I can't post but if you would like to see what I have, as an example, I would be glad to send you some pictures.
Mark
Thanks Razor62, I'll be using those pipes on the .54 underhammer 1:36 ROT for a client. A hunting rifle--so every ounce counts....Tom
Well, lots of folks seemed to be as reluctant as I was to change the profile of the forend when polled for advice. I've decided to put up with having to resort to using a capper or some other method of capping the rifle in favor of leaving the forend as originally planned. I did open up the recess some and I may in fact open it up some more but today I finally routed the ramrod channel and began contouring the forend. Have a look. Let me know what ya' think....
Forend progress:
Ramrod channel routed:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/Forend004.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/Forend003.jpg)
Shaping up!:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/Forend001.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/Forend002.jpg)
I think it's looking great so far. thmbsup
There you go, that looks good and should work fine.
Mark
Got some more done today. I was gonna' drill & tap for the scope mounts today but I realized after laying everything out that I don't have the proper 6-48 taps. What I thought was the right size turned out to be 6-40 hdslp I did layout the mounting hole position for the scope mounts and used a center drill to just dimple the location of the four holes. Once the taps arrive I'll drill and tap, mount the scope and adjust the cheek rest accordingly.
So, I installed a flash guard to the forearm recess and opened it up a little. Did some work on the ramrod channel so that the ramrod will fit neatly into its groove. Sanded & shaped the forend. From there it's pretty much finish work.
I took some pics of the rifle all assembled and I'm posting them up cuz' she sure looks purdy!
Assembled rifle. Almost there!:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/A02C0294-A6A4-417E-80F7-1309F4A61BAB-9514-00001A5EDCE2C955.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/52925C58-710E-4855-A79D-059912755624-9514-00001A5ECDB32534.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/AAAE7994-F2D1-4048-8E2C-1BC50266BF80-9514-00001A5F1AA29F8B.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/A0961FFE-077A-4F9D-8D29-2753B6106581-9514-00001A5F0BA71E4C.jpg)
Flash guard and recess:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/43B2EA5C-2E03-4733-AD9E-F3DEB0436E5F-9514-00001A7B7D0CCBE6.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/B93A9223-8997-4D96-A357-5F30B17A2F73-9514-00001A7B7062FFD3.jpg)
.
looks good ! but then I`m rather partial to under hammers !
Great, without the hammer in there she looks like a Winchester hi-wall. Sorta. If you plan on making a swamped bbl long rifle next year, you mite think about calling Ed Rayl in W.Va.304-364-8269. He's well known for his one at a time tack drivers. If you want something not found in any catalog--he'll make it. long as it's safe. One problem with Ed, he works alone & usually tells you 1 year! but man is he good. I saw a fowler he made the bbl. for and it was 72" long. the bbl. not gun! Just a thought....Tom
I'm looking forward to seeing some finish on that wood, it should be pretty.
Thanks again guys. Gunmaker, I'm familiar with Ed and his outstanding reputation. However, I've already got my swamped .50 cal barrel sitting in the corner of my workshop. She's been winking at me for a couple of years now. One of these days I'm gonna' have to pay her some attention. ;D
OK, here's were I make my break from "Traditional" complete...Got the taps in yesterday and I wasted no time in installing the scope. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the cheek rest needs absolutely no adjustment what-so-ever. If I close my eyes and shoulder the rifle the scope is dead center when I open my eyes. I knew I was close but this was a stroke of luck.
Scope Installed:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/BFEDE794-B5E8-4425-BFB7-A013CAB17065-12001-000023807E9F976A.jpg)
.
Be quite interesting to see what she'll print for groups with that "thing" on the bbl. keep it up....Tom
Just thought I'd post up a progress report.... Currently I'm at the point with this build that I'm merely taking care of a plethora of minor details none of which are really camera worthy. Besides, being this close close to the finished stage, any photos would most certainly spoil the surprise so everyone will have to wait until the unveiling... ;D ;D ;D
I never had much of an interest in the more modern side of our chosen madness. This build has piqued my interest however. Very nicely executed front stuffer. The ebony inlays really are remarkable. Beautiful figure to the stock and foearm, that should really pop when the finish is applied.
Rust bluing both today and yesterday. Slow day at work so I should be finished with the bluing by the time I close up shop today. Man! She's startin' to look like a gun!!!!
Stock is finished and awaiting the checkering files. Should get allot of that done tomorrow. Hoping to have her assembled by Sunday the 24th. I feel like a kid a few days before X-Mass. ;D
Pics coming soon....
.
Well, I'm finally finished with my underhammer project. There's still a couple of details that I need to take care of.... I still need to install the forward sling swivel and I'm planning on scrimshawing my signature and date into the tagua nut diamond inlay in the grip cap. There are a few "whoopsies" that I'll keep to myself but nothing that I can't live with.
Rust blued steel, all of the screws were flame blued. Hand rubbed oil finish, Checkering is eighteen lines per inch. Ebony forend tip & grip cap, gold plated trigger and hammer. The nipple recess has been lined with brass in hopes of protecting the wood from the cap flash. 44" overall length and weighs in at 7.5 lbs.
I'll try to take some photos with a nicer background once the weather breaks around here.
All in all, I'm very pleased with the way that this project turned out. Let me know what you think. Comments and criticisms are welcomed and encouraged.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/Underhammer003_zps07b230e4.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/Underhammer004_zps4bf8963c.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/Underhammer009_zps3cfc4bf3.jpg)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/Underhammer010_zpsb42ce9e1.jpg)
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pnic Very nice Absolutely gorgeous rifle am at a loss for words
That's some real nice work Razor62, real nice. How hard is it to get your finger on the hammer spur? I've seen some of those with a kind a watch fob dangler hanging from hammer to make cocking easier. Does this mean your coming back from the dark side to a more "traditional" state of grace. When will we see some targets??? I know it's COLD back there. When I lived in the woods by myself, I just opened the window and blasted away. ....Tom hntr
Gorgeous, truly gorgeous! Thank you for letting us see this building process, you have my appreciation as well.
beautiful build..modern, but not (inline ) bad word.....looks like one heck of a hunting rifle....go get some venison..
Doug
thmbsup thmbsup thmbsup
beautiful rifle , anyone would be proud to own it ! thmbsup
Job well done there Razor.Elegant would be a good word for that shootin iron.
Thanks everyone for all of the kind words.
Gunmaker, I opened up that recess quite a bit. No problem getting my finger under the hammer to cock it. I will need to employ a capper to cap it however. No biggie I suppose but I wrestled with that for awhile. I'll post up some pics when I finally sit down with her and sight her in.
I guess you could say that I'm growing more primitive (traditional) as my next build will be my first flinter. A short barreled, smooth bored, left handed one at that. I've been wanting to build one for a few years now and I think I'm finally ready to begin. Keep yer eyes peeled for that in a new thread to come.
Welcome back from the dark side of the force Razor62, I was in Japan in 1962 !! I might have an order for a shorty canoe gun too.---Maybe. Keep up the good work, we need all the help we can get....Tom
beautiful rifle. thmbsup
Very nice rifle!
Finally got around to firing this rifle. With hunting season fast approaching I thought that I'd get out there and see what she can do.
When viewing the following photos please keep in mind that I am by no means a marksman.
This was the last group of the day. I had her shooting even better at the beginning of my session but then my POI began to climb. At first she was shooting cloverleaf three shot groups at 50 yards but then something changed. Don't know what it was but she settled down and printed this group with 90 gr. of Pyrodex behind a 295 gr Powerbelt hollow point at 50 yards. Plenty of accuracy for New England whitetail hunting,
I'd imagine that she'd do allot better if I were to take the time to really work up a load and experiment with different bullets. All in all, I'm quite pleased with the results already.
The tear that you see about 5" high was caused by bullet fragments which blew back through my backboard after striking the steel I-beam that it was leaning against.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/UnderhammerTarget002_zps35558357.jpg) (http://s154.photobucket.com/user/klarose103/media/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/UnderhammerTarget002_zps35558357.jpg.html)
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/UnderhammerTarget001_zpsa3668154.jpg) (http://s154.photobucket.com/user/klarose103/media/50%20Cal%20Underhammer%20Project/UnderhammerTarget001_zpsa3668154.jpg.html)
Thats a good start, beware deeries.......Tom
I'd call it "the real deal". Very handsome and accurate.
Nice job on this project. I must say it sparked some comments with some folks here when the pictures started appearing. Have a great time with this rifle out in the field.
1st day back on the forum after a long time. I thought that some of the folks would like to see my 1st kill with the underhammer. This was in November of 2015. He was at 70 yards and straight on. Aimed for the white patch on his neck and touched her off. He dropped in his tracks without so much as a kick. While not the biggest whitetail I've ever taken, It's definitely among the most prized due to having taken it with a rifle which I crafted with my two hands.
BTW... It's great to be back among some of the nicest folks on the net!
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Wow! A one of a kind underhammer.
Quite the rifle and a fine hunt; thank you for sharing with us.
Plea tell us a little about the load combo you used and how it performed on your deer, other than DRT.
Thanks William. The barrel has a twist rate of 1:28". I selected this twist because of my preference of the .295 gr copper clad hollow point, CVA Powerbelt bullets. I push those along with 90 grains of FFg.
The bullet entered the deer's neck straight on and exited out the right side. You can see the exit in the photo. I've found that a solid neck shot whether straight on like this or sideways always result in immediate death. Here's a photo of the entry point:
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s272/klarose103/Mobile%20Uploads/20141120_181222_zpsievd8bs4.jpg) (http://s154.photobucket.com/user/klarose103/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141120_181222_zpsievd8bs4.jpg.html)
Nice details on your hunt. Unfortunately, your choice of projectiles isn't a matter for discussion on this forum. However, having had a fast twist barrel like yours in 50 caliber I can share the results of what worked and what didn't as far as using lead conicals.
First off, 2f Goex just wouldn't give good accuracy so I switched to 3f fairly quickly. I tried the Hornady Great Plains bullets along with similar ready made conicals up to 425 grains. The GP bullets have me acceptable accuracy but nothing like what a round ball would do in my other rifles. Then someone suggested the Lee REAL bullets, starting with 350 grains or so. These gave me slightly better groups and better still when I added a lubed fiber wad (Wonder Wads) but still not exceptional when compared with RB. Then one of our forum members suggested that instead of going up in weight, to go down. The magic number turned out to be 220.grains of pure lead from a Lee REAL mold, a Wonder wad and 95 grains of 3f Goex. Recoil was stout and it wasn't what you wanted to shoot all day but at 75 yards using open sights the center ring of the target was vaporized after the third shot. I'm quite sure that bullet would do end to end on anything up to elk. Now, Lee doesn't make a 220 grain REAL mold any more so if you want to try it then you'll have to find a used one but it might be worth trying.
Awesome info William. Thank you indeed! That's what's great about these open forums. Knowledge grows and flows rapidly. BTW... I'm a firm believer in stout recoil. It ensures good form because it teaches correct fit of rifle to shoulder due primarily to the fact that improper fit results in excruciating pain after having fired a dozen rounds or so. In other words it enforces good form due to it's tendency to punish bad form. One quickly learns to make their 1st shot count in favor of experiencing the possibility of a second shot.. This is the perfect lesson for folks who're limited to only one shot. That means us front stuffers. :-)
You are welcome and I hope it helps you develop an accurate, lethal load combination for your rifle.
Beautiful rifle and those little bucks can sure be the best eating.
Doug