In fact, I think I will need help on every step of this project...
Has anyone already built one of these kits ?
My first problem is with the "Connecting the stock and fore stock" part, which is number 1A on the kit instruction sheet...
They say : "the connecting hole in the stock and fore stock must be opened to the correct size". Now, what kind of tool should I use to do that ?
This is how the kit looks, just out of the box, and pieces roughly in position of assembly :
Yes, that's the one I built. I would guess a drill to open the hole size, it has been so long I do not remember any details on the build. I do remember it was fairly easy. The "stock joining plate" is the brass spacer I was referring to in the other thread...
Hi Rev.
Would you have any idea of when this kit may have been produced ? There is no date code on the barrel, and no indication on the instruction sheet either. [hmm]
I got mine in 1980. I have no idea if it was new or had set on a shelf for a while...
bought my kit in 79 , first thing I did was toss away that brass joining plate ! rifle still went together well and looked pretty good for a two piece stock ! you`ll be surprised at just how accurate these rifles are for the price . I paid $67.00 for mine . I also got rid of the brass screws and bought steel ones to replace them , it`s a fairly simple kit , you shouldnt have much trouble with it ! and mine did`nt need to have the connecting hole enlarged ! might be slightly misaligned , so I believe rev is right , a drill , or maybe even a round file might work . good luck with your build , and remember to post pics of the finished product !
Or even better, pictures of the step by step progress and the hair pulling it entails! bunkr
If you need any help posting pictures let me know!
Quote from: beowulf on July 11, 2012
bought my kit in 79 , first thing I did was toss away that brass joining plate ! rifle still went together well and looked pretty good for a two piece stock ! you`ll be surprised at just how accurate these rifles are for the price . I paid $67.00 for mine . I also got rid of the brass screws and bought steel ones to replace them , it`s a fairly simple kit , you shouldnt have much trouble with it ! and mine did`nt need to have the connecting hole enlarged ! might be slightly misaligned , so I believe rev is right , a drill , or maybe even a round file might work . good luck with your build , and remember to post pics of the finished product !
Thanks for your encouragements, Beowulf.
As far as I know, Jukar merged with Mendi in 1977, giving birth to Dikar, and later to Ardesa. Our kits should then have been produced in 1977 at the latest. If you bought yours in 1979, it must have been either one of the last made, or one which waited for you on a shelf for a couple years.
I bought mine in June this year, and paid 100€ (about $122) for it, which is a real bargain nowadays.
It's a fairly simple kit alright, but it also is my first ever, and I do not have any tool suited for the woodwork it needs, neither have I any experience in woodworking.
The connecting hole in both parts of the stock is really too small for the rod to get in it. I have bought a round file to enlarge it, but of course, the one I chose is too small. I'll have to try with a drill, making sure I drill the hole straight...
Here are pics of the kit as it still is today : complete in its box, as I received it, the instruction sheet, and the metal parts, steel and brass.
please try to keep us updated on your build ,and don't forget pics!!! there is nothing like building your own bp rifle and then firing it!!! :applause:
interesting . mine did`nt need quite as much work as your kit ! my trigger was already assembled and the two piece stock was drilled properly and was lined up with two steel pins , the brass plate turned into more of a p.i.t.a. that I was willing to tolerate , so it vanished ! I put the stock together with the pins and acraglass . the guy I sold it to back in 81 is still using it ! those stocks are hard to stain properly ( it`s the wood used ) get in touch with mongrel and he can give you some good advice on what kind of stain and finish to use on it ! you can trust his advice , he builds some fine rifles and fowlers !
Quote from: beowulf on July 12, 2012
interesting . mine did`nt need quite as much work as your kit ! my trigger was already assembled and the two piece stock was drilled properly and was lined up with two steel pins , the brass plate turned into more of a p.i.t.a. that I was willing to tolerate , so it vanished ! I put the stock together with the pins and acraglass . the guy I sold it to back in 81 is still using it ! those stocks are hard to stain properly ( it`s the wood used ) get in touch with mongrel and he can give you some good advice on what kind of stain and finish to use on it ! you can trust his advice , he builds some fine rifles and fowlers !
Mine too...
I expect this might mean that the first kits were maybe a bit too difficult for the average punter, so they had to make them simpler...
I'll be sure to get in touch with Mongrel when I'm ready to stain the stock, but that will not happen before a good while.
I still would like to know how old is my kit... Does anyone know if there is any connection between the date of make and the serial number on the barrel ?
I did basically the same kit. Here are a few pix.
removing ALOT of extra wood.
and more wood
Obviously, you have got a lot more tools (and probably experience) than I have !
I am already in panic about having to remove the extra wood...
Ringo, I did alot of studying , online and in books, about the architechure and dimensioning of rifles. Still studying. in fact I took the forestock down so far the supplied nose cap could not be used so I poured a pewter nose cap with the help of a good frend and building mentor. more pix to come.Look at the 2nd pix in my first post and I actually took the wood smaller than that brass nose cap.
cornfed
lock panel reshaping
other side and nose cap set up for pouring pewter. Some of these are out of order because of file size.
here is other side
nose work before shaping pewter with files.
and after,more pix after work of in my A.M. tomarrow when I stop today.
more pre-fitting, I hand made the lock screw bolt "washers". There is no real school depicted by this rifle as it was a total experiment of trying different things I had read about. I even broke the original trigger guard so the same friend and I sand cast a brass replacement.
That's a hell of a job you did there, Cornfed !
I wish I was able to do as well... I also wish I had someone near me who could give me advice.
Sometimes, one can feel lonely staring at a piece of wood in his hands...
I even tried my hand at relief carving after taking a carving class at the local woodcraft store. The flower is off of a southern bohemian flag where my ancestors came from. The flower is about 1/4 the flag.
You have the net at yer finger tips and many people who are more than willing to help with questions. Just take yer time.
more
and more
Quote from: cornfed on July 12, 2012
You have the net at yer finger tips and many people who are more than willing to help with questions. Just take yer time.
I only have 2 problems to solve : I am gifted with two left hands, and I am shy of the mistakes I might do.
I am a white collar, quite efficient with a computer, but completely helpless when it comes to handcraft. rdfce
One of the most important things to remember as a novice builder is to take your time, and don't bite off more than you can chew. Sounds like you're already going to have both your left hands full ROFL, just assembling this kit into something shootable -- don't worry about excess wood removal or carving, this time. Your kit will assemble into a perfectly functional firearm for you to enjoy and learn from. If you're motivated to try something more complex, by successfully completing this gun, time enough then to decide to try to achieve something more than a simple assembly.
When I started building, I built entirely from scratch, mainly for financial reasons but also because I simply love to make things. My first rifle was quite possibly the most hideous shooting tool ever devised by man (I have yet to see one uglier). However, it worked. I tore it apart and built a second one from the same components and a new slab of wood. It was a LITTLE better. Thereafter I bought barrels and locks and bits of hardware whenever I had the money, and built more rifles, and on each new project I assigned myself a new technique to try and learn. Like you, Ringo, I had no mentor to show me the way -- I looked at pictures and read articles and applied what I saw and learned to my own work. Be patient with yourself and, if a mistake is made, remember that even the most masterful of the old masters made mistakes -- the reference books are full of pictured proof, if you look closely. One thing that made a master was the ability to transform the mistake into something that appeared to have been intended to be that way, all along, or at least to acceptably conceal the error.
I will make your life a bit easier with the promise that, if you stick around this forum and participate, and seek guidance when you come up against a puzzle or a problem, and in spite of that you bugger up your stock -- I will make you a new stock and install however many of the parts you need me to, if you will send them for me to fit to the wood. I'll leave the last shaping, sanding, and finishing to you, so you still have a learning experience, but your rifle won't be a complete loss if something goes terribly wrong with the stock you now have.
And, by the way, since there are already holes drilled for the steel joining pins, but the holes are undersized -- go to your nearest hardware store and buy an inexpensive electric drill and set of drill bits. These are the proper tools for enlargement of holes in wood, and a drill is a very versatile tool for any person to own. Determine the correct-sized drill bit to match to your pins. You will find that if you start slow and let the drill bit guide itself, it will follow the path of least resistance through the wood, meaning it will center itself in the existing pin holes and do a perfect job of enlarging them on center IF YOU ALLOW IT TO. I know people with such control issues that they would turn to the right on a straight road simply because they're incapable of going the way the road takes them. This will get you nowhere but a lot of grief in your project. Let the drill bit follow the existing path of the pin holes and all should be well.
Having accomplished that, come back to us with your next question or questions, and we'll be standing by to answer. Good luck.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2tlGeGbYYs
Quote from: mongrel on July 12, 2012I will make your life a bit easier with the promise that, if you stick around this forum and participate, and seek guidance when you come up against a puzzle or a problem, and in spite of that you bugger up your stock -- I will make you a new stock and install however many of the parts you need me to, if you will send them for me to fit to the wood. I'll leave the last shaping, sanding, and finishing to you, so you still have a learning experience, but your rifle won't be a complete loss if something goes terribly wrong with the stock you now have.
I am really grateful for your generous offer, Mongrel. You still have to remember I live in France... which would not be a problem on my side if I really do mess up the stock I have.
Quote from: mongrel on July 12, 2012And, by the way, since there are already holes drilled for the steel joining pins, but the holes are undersized -- go to your nearest hardware store and buy an inexpensive electric drill and set of drill bits. These are the proper tools for enlargement of holes in wood, and a drill is a very versatile tool for any person to own. Determine the correct-sized drill bit to match to your pins. You will find that if you start slow and let the drill bit guide itself, it will follow the path of least resistance through the wood, meaning it will center itself in the existing pin holes and do a perfect job of enlarging them on center IF YOU ALLOW IT TO. I know people with such control issues that they would turn to the right on a straight road simply because they're incapable of going the way the road takes them. This will get you nowhere but a lot of grief in your project. Let the drill bit follow the existing path of the pin holes and all should be well.
That is the best advice I've had so far about this part, so that's the one I'll follow as soon as I can. It may not be during the next few days, as I am babysitting my granddaughter (10 month 1/2) and either she's sleeping or she's in my arms (sometimes both in the same time).
Quote from: mongrel on July 12, 2012Having accomplished that, come back to us with your next question or questions, and we'll be standing by to answer. Good luck.
I'll sure have other questions once the holes are drilled. This questions-answers bit might even last for quite a while...
Many thanks, Mongrel !
I know where you live. Shipping a long-ish piece of wood is just a matter of money.... ROFL
As I said, I am grateful, and I do thank you. chrrs
Hopefully, I will not need to take up your offer, but one never knows.